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What's anyone's favorite adhesive to glue up cork rings?

I've used PU and epoxies with equal success -- I tend to lean a little toward the epoxies because they fill voids well, but they don't give much working time.  (Greg Kuntz)

    I usually use Titebond II.   (Bob Maulucci)

    Bostik Clear.  (Paul Blakley)

    Titebond 2.  (Mike Shay)

    I have always used Titebond.  It bonds well, sets quickly, sands easily and leaves no glue line.  (Bill Harms)

    I use Epon, it doesn't take much and I have to buy the stuff by the quart anyway. It works best if you put a slight amount on, then scrape as much of it off again as you possibly can, just be sure to coat the whole surface first. Ralph O'Quinn of U-40 tipped me off to that method and it works really well, no glue lines at all. It also helps to wash the cork rings first, gets rid of the bleaching so you don't get white rings between every cork.  (John Channer)

    Golf mart shafting epoxy.   Long pot life and a nice tan color to boot.  (Rob Hoffhines)

Rule

Has anyone used Titebond III for gluing up cork rings? The product claims that it is waterproof but not for continuous submersion or under waterline uses  What have been your experiences.  I have always used epoxy and thought I would change if it works well, it would also be more cost effective. Any other adhesives are acceptable.  (Mike Hoffman)

    I have made rods for 10 years using Titebond on the cork and have never had a problem, on handles for the plastic rods I built them on a threaded rod and then glued them to the rod using epoxy but on bamboo I use Titebond for both and finish the handle on the blank. I have gone through the entire series for Titebond and am now using III and having no problems. The rods have gotten the normal dip's in the water and I have yet to have one come off.  (Gary Jones)

    I have always used Titebond II for gluing up grips and have never had a problem or a failure.  I suppose Titebond III is even better.  (Robert Cristant)

    Their description of a "waterproof" glue that is not for continuous submersion seems a great deal like an oxymoron, no???  (Joe West)

    There's a pretty good discussion about glues used in making grips here.

    I'm sure I don't agree with Dave Lewis on everything, but he's on track with the idea that one should use the best glues rather than those most readily available or  even those we have on hand.  I use polyurethane glue for grips because I think it's the best available.  (Harry Boyd)

    If you glue the cork rings to the rod before turning the grip, is it necessary to apply glue between the rings? I've been wanting to try reaming the rings oversized and gluing the rings to the rod without glue between the rings. Then press them together with a cork press as usual. There wouldn't be any glue lines or ridges when sanded. Any thoughts? I started using T88 epoxy when I wanted to use up some left over glue before it turned bad. I like the extra working time and makes a strong handle.

    I've also have had a preformed grip come apart after using a solvent type adhesive. That was a mess!   (David Dziadosz)

      For what it's worth, I'd expect to see the rings open, dirt get between them etc. after a bit of use.  I think there's enough flex in the cork that you'd want the rings glued to each other and not just to the rod.  (Neil Savage)

        Good point. The glue between the rings will serve as a seal. I swell the butt up to the handle and probably oversize the handle area too much. Then adding a layer of epoxy, makes for a pretty stiff handle. Probably doesn't take much flex to open the gaps between the rings to allow dirt to enter.  (David Dziadosz)

    I use Titebond II for gluing the rings together (use sparsely) in a homemade clamp for squeezing the rings, and U-40 rod bond for gluing the cork handle to the rod.  I turn my cork handle using my wood lathe to the dimensions I want before gluing to the rod. I make my cork handle off the rod using a supporting 1/4 inch threaded rod and then open up the internal diameter with several round wood files.  I size the inside of the cork handle to fit the rod before glue up.  (Frank Paul)

    I have been using Titebond II and Titebond II extended for about 4 years in my rod building. I have used it making handles, rod construction both noded and nodeless and have yet to have any failures. I have a 7 wt that I built nodeless and have used both in saltwater on barracuda and to fish large browns and Steelhead for 3 years without any failures. I have a 3 wt that has been passed around to several of my fly fishing friends for them to acid test for me and it is holding up with no failures of any type.

    I would not hesitate in using Titebond III to construct cork handles. I do it all the time with Titebond II.  (Jim Tefft)

      When using glue for cork rings I have two primary objectives (listed in order of importance):

      1. The glue's gotta hold the rings together and to the rod.

      2. The glue must be "soft" enough to not cause ridges as I turn down the cork or as the cork settles upon use (like some epoxies can do).

      I actually use 5 minute epoxy to anchor the "furthest down" ring to the rod, then glue and fit the subsequent rings onto my "anchor" ring and compress using a cork handle clamp.    (Scott Turner)

        #2 is my complaint with Titebond.  It seems to leave hard spots in the grip that I find uncomfortable.  It also will chip carbide router bits and planer blades.  I now use PU for anything that's going in the router or planer, and also for grips.  I don't think any of the modern glues will be a problem as far as holding the cork together or holding it to the rod.  (Neil Savage)

    I use it all the time for cork grips. I use the glue sparingly between cork rings. I rotate the cork rings to spread the glue when assembling them into a cork grip. I have had no failures.  (Frank Paul)

      I too, use Titebond II for grips and have had no problems. Less messy than using Poly and I think it's durable enough. I always seal the cane under where the grip and the reel seat go before finishing out the blank, so I'm not worried about moisture getting through and I've never had a grip come apart from being briefly submerged, while fishing. Just My 2 cents worth.  (Bill Walters)

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