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On a discussion group for pen turners someone mentioned using clear powder coat finish for his metal parts.  Seems that the powder coat process leaves a smooth glossy and really tough finish.   Has anyone tried using it for ferrules and/or reel seat parts?  I checked with Harbor Freight and they have a powder coat system available for $69.  Might be a good way to get a hard finish on metal parts.  (Jason Swan)

    I use a powder coating system here in my shop, to coat gun parts. I don't think the ferrules could take the backing temp. of 400 degrees. The solder would melt.  Although, I don't see why you couldn't use it for reel seats. Unless that temp. would cause any problem with the Nickel Silver?

    Check with  They also carry the systems and many different colors of coating.  (Dave LeClair)

    I dunno.  Seems like Abel has gone down that road.  Though, that is anodizing.  How about a nice metallic flake finish, like on custom motorcycles???  Sort of a prismatic effect?  Oh, yeah.  You may be on to something, there!  (Timothy Troester)

      You should try "Case Coloring" like they do on expensive firearms. I did a set of hardware a few years ago and it turned out nice. You use an acetylene torch with a fine tip and a liquid called Tincture of Benzoin.  (Dave LeClair)

        Since I had a couple of guys asking about how to do case coloring on reel seat hardware, I figured I may as well put it on the list.

        First, you will need an acetylene torch with a very small tip and you will also need a bottle of Tincture of Benzoin. This is something you will have to get from your local drug store. They will most likely have to order it for you. It is use for cuts I think,  sort of like iodine.

        This is how the procedure is done. Using the torch, heat the part until it is very warm, don't get it too hot. Using a piece of paper towel, wet the paper towel with the Tincture of Benzoin and begin to wipe this onto the hot part. Then, very carefully, bring the tip of the torch right down to the piece and "play" with the flame on the piece. You will get some nice colors on the metal. Don't dally too long and make the part so hot, that it turns real dark. It will turn so dark, you will loose your colors. It takes a little bit of practice, but once you get the hang of it, you can make some nice looking hardware.

        After you have the colors you want, then wet the paper towel again and wipe the part with it. This will give you a very hard, clear coating on the piece.

        Try it and I think you will like the results. I have been using this procedure on firearms for the past thirty years with good results.  (Dave LeClair)


Well, I was able to fish my new Payne 200L yesterday for the first time.......just LOVED the taper. What a SMOOTH and sweet rod. Just fell in love with it. I was asking Harry recommendations for my next rod and he said that was a easy choice given my need for a longer rod to throw a 4 wt with light flies. It actually threw larger streamers well too but it won't be used that hard most of the time. Thanks Harry for the suggestion......I really like it. Will be my primary rod for a while.

Question:  Why did my nickel silver change color on the first trip out? My stripper guide was varnished several times and my ferrules had one coat of spar as well. Were nice and shiny silver before the trip but turned a golden hue within hours of fishing. What makes that happen? To make it even more confusing, the step down area on the female ferrule near the tabs is shiny clear and the larger main area turned and the male end still looks shiny too. Each were coated with spar equally. Really has me confused. Please explain...... (Barry Janzen)

    Looks to me like the sun on your new varnish is starting to yellow it already. I'm sure you noticed that the varnish in the can isn't crystal clear, well it isn't on the rod either and some sun on it just brought it out. I suppose it's possible that the larger portion of the female shaded the small area just above the wrap that it didn't get enuf sun to turn. Try laying it out on a table in the sun and see if the rest of it will turn. I haven't noticed this on my rods because I blacken everything except the reel seat hardware so it doesn't show up. The few times I have made a rod with bright hardware I didn't varnish over the ferrules and expected the guides to show up as varnished.  (John Channer)

    If it was cold out, it may be that you are having some differential adhesion to the NS. The NS cools rapidly and the varnish doesn't. This might create areas where the varnish is tight to the metal where it appears clear and places where it is not adhering very strongly (may be starting to peel off) and the light is being scattered giving you a somewhat cloudy finish which appears to be more yellow. Personally, I do not varnish my ferrules. JMHO  (Doug Easton)


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