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My spare belt for my Rodsmith pooped itself, and I couldn't find a spare, (West Virginia has very few overlapping anything here, so no, a store didn't happen to have something that would work!), so I took a double wrapping of an old fly line, and tied it with an overhand knot, I guess it was anyway, and it's been working for 3 weeks. New ones are ordered. I haven't used it for the power turning side, never do anyway, but it's nice for applying varnish to the wraps. Hope someone gets some use out of this somewhere. (Jerry Andrews)

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Anyone have any idea where to get those cheap low RPM motors (8 RPM) I want to build a jig  that will turn multiple sections at once. I have looked one of the flex coat jobbies but those are a bit more than I'd like to spend.  (Eamon Lee)

    Try calling Surplus Center, 1-800-488-3407, and see what they have in stock. McMaster-Carr, and Grainger's both have such motors, though they can get a little on the expensive side, depending on what you're buying.  (Martin-Darrell)

    I just picked up a electric can opener that was discarded. That motor will work fine. Also check your Salvation Army Thrift store for outdoor Barbecue motor. In the past, I have made turners from both of these motors. I have finally graduated to a Flex coat set up (a gift) and a home made turner. The rod is assembled with one tip section and turned in the Flex Coat Turner and the other tip is turned in the home made turner that was made from a discarded timer motor.  (Tony Spezio)

    American Science and Surplus always has a bunch from $1.50 up.  I use a little 2 rpm model.  I think that they call the small ones timing motors.  Not much torque, but you don't need much.  (Jerry Madigan)

      American Science and Surplus’ catalog lists item #33052 as a 120v ac motor that does 6 rpm and lists for $2.75 each.  I picked up another one that is not listed in the catalog which is a 2 rpm motor that runs on 120v ac.  I have ran my 2 rpm motor all day with out any ill effects. 

      Side note the price is even less if you go to the store on Milwaukee Avenue as I paid like $3.00 for two motors this past May.  If there is any interest in a "group buy" let me know and I can have my Uncle that lives very close go and buy them out of their stock that is on hand.  (Brad Love)

    American Scientific always has a wide variety of motors. Both different RPMs and voltages are available. If you are anywhere near Chicago, they are worth the trip.  (Rich Jezioro)

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What speed motors do most of you use for rod dryers?  Is a 40 rpm too fast?  (John Freedy)

    In my opinion, that is WAY to fast.  I apply the finish at 12 rpm and then change it to dry at 4 or 6 rpm.  I don’t think that fast will allow the finish to level correctly.  (Jason Swan)

      I apply about 18 but for drying, I use 6 rpm as well.

      40 rpm's might spray the wall!  (Pat Higgins)

        What are you guy's drying that requires a motor?  (Jerry Foster)

          For me it's a holdover from applying the FlexCoat to graphite rod wraps.  I've just continued to use it with the varnish.  Is it not necessary?  (Pat Higgins)

          When applying poly or varnish to only the thread wraps (as opposed to dipping the whole rod), turning the rod horizontally helps to keep the finish from sagging or dripping down onto the rod blank.  (Jason Swan)

        Just how much are you slopping on those wraps, anyway?  Just a suggestion, I don't want to tell you how to finish a rod, but if you are worrying about varnish or poly or whatever sagging at the wraps perhaps you should consider lighter coats or a different viscosity?  (Chris Lucker)

          I'll second that approach.  I could stand mine on end and not touch 'em for a week and no sags or runs!  (Now if only my kid's room were that easy.  (George Bourke)

        You guys need to get out more <g>.  At the Guild Conclave in Nashville, my booth was across the aisle from Roger Seider's booth.  He's the Flex Coat guy.  Believe it or not, FlexCoat is best applied at over 200 rpm's!  They suggest turning it slower than that for drying, but it really is applied with the rod moving in a hurry.  I watched Roger put epoxy on all the wraps on a graphite rod in about 3-4 minutes.  It's amazing.   And you would not believe how nice it looked.  Of course, he's done more than a few rods in his day.

        I apply my varnish with the rod turning at 40 rpm's.  Then I wick almost all of the excess off with a dry brush, and stand the rod in a relatively dust-free corner to dry for a coupla days.  The way I do it, there's no leveling to be done, since each coat is so thin.  (Harry Boyd)

          I would really like to see that.  I just might have to try that with my 3/4 hp motor.  Was that for a single coat application?  I would think that for second or third coats it might be more problematical since the thread wraps are so much smoother after the first coat.  Did he use a brush?  I would think it would be hard to be precise with the thing moving that fast.  Must also be turning nice and level.  How did he support the rod and keep the tip from wobbling around?

          Wish I had seen that.  My Flex Coat usually gets gummy by the time I am done with a 9 ft. rod.  (Jason Swan)

            I expect 200 rpm's would really magnify my mistakes!  (Pat Higgins)

            With epoxy, one coat ought to do quite well.  He used the cheapo plastic brushes that Flex Coat sells, and did all the work on Flex-Coat's rod "lathe" (using the term loosely).  (Harry Boyd)

            Ralph O'Quinn of Trondak UB40 (or is that some 'music' group? ;o) uses a spatula to apply epoxy to guides. I'm sure Harry must  have  seen  this  demonstrated  as  well.  (Martin-Darrell)

            Yes, it can be done at 200 rpm, both Roger of Flexcoat and Ralph of Trondak UB40 do it. I know Ralph recommends two thin coats, both applied same way, and he uses a spatula! A small steel lab-type instrument with a blade about 1/8 or 3/16" wide.  Yes, it sounds really hard to control, but yes these guys do it and make it look easy.  (Rick Funcik)

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Any ideas on where to get a slow rpm motor for drying wraps?  I know there has got to be some cleaver contraptions out there.  (Mike Maero)

    If all you want is the motor, check eBay. Do a search for "rod wrapper" or “rod building” and you should  get some hits for motors. I got one for a few dollars. it's a 4 rpm motor.  (Robert Hicks)

    The best place I have found is from Micro-Mark.  The phone number is 1-800-225-1066 and the web address.  It is the animation motor #82090 priced at $14.95.  The nice thing was I used the exactly way it came to me.  No wiring needed and it has a switch in the power line to turn it on and off.  The shaft does 1/8 cross hole in it but don't try to drill or tap it because the shaft is a harden steel and it dulled my drill bits and taps trying to put a thread in it.  (Robert Holder)

    A little more expensive than the Micro-Mark motor, Cabelas sells a 4  rpm  motor  also.   Runs  $22  plus  change,  catalog  No.  ID-311429.  I picked one up in Dundee a year and a half ago on way to Grayrock.  Never have done anything with it, but was going to adapt it somehow to my dip tube.  (Tim Wilhelm)

    I picked up two 1 RPM motors at a electrical surplus store.  They were originally made for furnace humidifiers.  A 1" diameter spool will withdraw at 3.14" per minute.  (Ted Knott)

    American Science and Surplus usually has some small (large enough for rods) motors that are geared down to 12 - 6 - 4 RPMs and for about $6-10.  (George Bourke)

    I'm using an old rotisserie motor which works just fine for applying varnish and drying wraps.  (Jack Follweiler)

    Hey M-D!  Doesn't McMaster-Carr handle these?  (Todd Talsma)

      I would love to make a motor for dipping that can run both ways, and with variable speed. That way I could run the clip down into the tank quickly, hook up the rod, then reverse and extract slowly. A source and parts list would be great. And a wiring diagram.

      My present system is an old 1 rpm motor from an ancient display case. I made a shaft bushing for it so it extracts at 2 " per minute. It's an OK setup, but I have to stand on a chair each time I want to unwind the thing. I am in the process of rebuilding my dipping cabinet and this would be a good time to upgrade if it can be done.  (Jeff Schaeffer)

        I got the kit from H and R, the model number can be found on the Rodmakers page. It runs both directions and has variable speed. It works great.  (Bob Maulucci)

    Try your local appliance repair shop.  Turntable motors for microwave ovens.  I got two for about $6 bucks a piece and they run  at  6  rpm.   A  small plumbing adapter and some 1/4" socket-head screws, three tapped holes, and a reworked extension cord, and a wooden mount and I have a wrapper.  (Kurt Clement)

    I use the Webber Grill motor.  (Bill Bixler)

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I am doing a new class this winter on finishing and was wondering if anyone had plans/design ideas for making a turning/drying setup for multiple rods.  I have 3 of the Flexcoat turning motors that could be used.  I know there are rigs that can be bought but was hoping not to have to spend that much as this is a class I will only be teaching once maybe twice a year.  I will need to setup ten rods at a time to turn while the wraps dry.  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  (Doug Hall)

    I took a tour of Orvis a couple of years ago and and they had a rig that looked like a giant spool which had several rods hung on it in a fashion similar to a Ferris wheel so that the center hub of the wheel was turned by the motor. Two wheels were mounted on the hub and the rods were placed into receivers located near the rims much in the same way that Ferris wheel chairs are located and hung.

    You can make a spool easily using a dowels and cardboard  or plywood wheels spaced at the correct distances apart. One dowel would be at the hub and would be turned by the Flexcoat motors.

    Mount the hub up high enough so the wheels of the spool clears the table.

    Mount ten or so more dowels evenly spaced around the outside rims of the two sides of the (wheels) spool. These outer dowels don't need to be more than a quarter of an inch; You could even thread monofilament instead if you want.

    If you used S-hooks hung on those dowels or monofilament to hold the rods, then gravity would keep everything in the correct relative positions and might work just fine.

    If none of this makes sense and you're still interested I'll make a sketch and send it to you.  (Dick Steinbach)

      Take a look at the Flexcoat.com web site.  The first image may will provide a view of several multi rod, single shaft rod turners that may work for your requirement.  (Charley McNeill)

    I took a long threaded rod and mounted two wooden discs on it with washers and nuts. The threaded rod sits in a long frame- one end is supported by a bushing, the other is connected to a 1 rpm motor from one of those rotating display cabinets. Holds three sections on clothespins that are screwed to the discs. I could do more if I needed to by adding extra clothespins.

    There is another way, though. Get a bunch of small blocks (reel seat insert blanks. Put the rod sections on them for support and have a timer set for 10 minutes. When the bell goes off, each student can give their rod a 1/4 turn. Reset timer, repeat as needed. I think that Nunley does his bulk finishing that way.   (Jeff Schaeffer)

    A very simple and cheap six section turner is described here.  (Tapani Salmi)

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