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I just finished making a few nickel silver 11/64 ferrules, and started making a 642 aluminum bronze (sometimes called Duronze) ferrule. I drilled out the female slide side and tried to run a 13/64 reamer in. The reamer binds up, creates a heck of a lot of friction heat - enough to make the cutting oil smoke and got stuck a couple times. Looking at the cutting edges of the reamer, they are all sharp, I had no problems with it reaming the NS ferrules.

I can't figure out what is going on with the reamer. The Duronze drilled out just fine, and I have made Duronze ferrules before. Does reaming out NS dull the reamers that fast?  (Darryl Hayashida)

    Reamers are made to cut with the little 45 degree face on the front edge of the reamer.  The sides may be nice and sharp, but if the front part gets dull, it will do that.  Dull cutters, coupled with trying to cut a brass based metal, will cut real hot and bind up like that.  (Mark Wendt)

      Thanks for the reply. I'll check those faces and see what the edges look like. I'm still amazed the reamers dulled that fast on NS. I have been using this reamer on aluminum for a long time, and they cut the NS with no problem.  (Darryl Hayashida)

        Was the Duronze you were trying to cut new stuff, or was it recycled?  Just curious, I do a little scrap metal dumpster diving on occasion, and sometimes the throw away's aren't always the purest of stock.  What kind of material is the reamer made out of - HSS, cobalt, or carbide?  Is it coated with anything like TiN?  Just for grins and giggles, try it out on a piece of aluminum or NS.  (Mark Wendt)

          Update on my reamer problem - everything I used on nickel silver now will not cut the Duronze. Drills and reamers both. My cutting tools still will work  on Duronze, but they are carbide.

          The reamers and drills that will not cut Duronze still work on NS and aluminum. They just scrape against the Duronze, build up massive friction heat and barely make a mark on the metal.

          What's happening here?????  (Darryl Hayashida)

            Were you using those reamers on the Duronze before?  I wonder of the Duronze somehow work hardened to the point where it's become real tough to cut.  As an experiment, take a fresh piece of Duronze, and try drilling and reaming.  (Mark Wendt)

              I was thinking along those same lines and already tried that. Same problem with the fresh piece. I  have made ferrules before with the same Duronze and same drills, same reamers. The only thing different is I made three 11/64ths nickel silver ferrules. This is the first time I used NS since I like aluminum or Duronze, but a friend wanted a NS ferrule on a blank, and I figured as long as I was making NS ferrules I might as well make a couple more.

              I guess I have to have separate drills and reamers for NS.  (Darryl Hayashida)

                Weird.  I've made a number of NS ferrules using the same reamer, and didn't notice much, if any dulling of the reamer's cutting edges  Are you sure you used the correct sized clearance drill?  Wondering if the reamer might have been trying to take too big of a bite?  Which NS were you machining before?  Wonder if there were some impurities in the NS that dulled the reamer cutters.  (Mark Wendt)

                  The edges don't look dull, and they still work on NS and aluminum. They just won't cut Duronze any more.  (Darryl Hayashida)

    I haven't made any ferrules out of 642 but have had similar problems with Silicone Bronze. Found and now exclusively use a cutting fluid called "ER energy release Cutting & Tapping Fluid" It's formulated to be used on hard metals, stainless, high nickel alloys, titanium & exotics. (Don Schneider)

      The cutting fluid really makes that much of a difference? I'll give it a try.  (Darryl Hayashida)

        I didn't believe the cutting fluid would make that much difference either. Having gone through all of the other options I tried "ER energy release Cutting & Tapping Fluid", the difference was night and day. The tool and work run at a much lower temp. My only concern is they will stop making it. There are some restrictions on shipping it & Grizzly doesn't always have it in stock, so when they do have it I get a case.

        The address on the can is:

        Energy Release
        345 W. Karcher Road
        Nampa, ID 83687

        Maybe you could call them and find out if someone local to you carries it.  (Don Schneider)


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