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I am doing a 6 foot rod, 2 piece. If you look at Wayne's tapers for one of these, it starts out with 3 stations @ .231 in the butt. It looks like he has 40" sections. However, when I cut my sections, I chopped them at 38 1/2", not 40, since I figured I only needed 36 inches.  That means I can't have the stations as he has them laid out along a 40" line.

So, how would you recommend I lay these out now? Do I forget one of the .231 sections, and slide it up exactly with the last top butt station?  Or what? In other words, is it better to leave the top final butt station exactly as he indicates, and get rid of one .231 on the other end?  (Mike Valla)

    You will be 1 1/2" short. I would consider splicing a length of dowel at the butt under the reel seat. The seat will act as a sleeve over the splice, it can be a shallow splice. Another way would be to splice some short lengths of bamboo strips to each butt strip Even if the splices are not perfect, they will be under the reel seat. I did that with one strip one time when I cut one strip short. There should be no flexing there. Just an idea that should work. The reel seat is 3 1/2 to 3 3/4" long.  (Tony Spezio)


Sorry for these simple questions, but hey -- it may help out another newbie, too! Now I'm really confused.

OK, now if I look at Wayne’s tapers here on this web site  under "tapers" (as opposed to his  tapers outlined in his book, per my last question) could someone explain to me the following:

1). He lists a 6 foot 2 piece rod.  Now, why does it add up to 65 inches and not 72 inches?? Where is the 7 inches that's missing to make 6 feet? 

2). Also, in the book, he lists the stations as per butt stations and tip stations. But I see here in the tapers archive on the web site they list the stations without telling me which ones go with the butt, and which ones go with the tip. What’s listed is  65" of stations. How do I now what goes with the butt section. And what stations go with the tip section?? Seems like all the tapers don't separate out butts and tips.  (Mike Valla)

    1. the 65" sections the action length the rest are the same diameter as the butt.

    2. The bigger numbers are the butt and the smaller ones are the tips.  (Larry Puckett)

    The 65" figure is the action length. The taper can flatten out at that point, except in the case of a swelled butt. The conventional thinking is that the action stops at the grip, so there is nothing to be gained by plotting it after that. You will find this to be quite common. There are rods that will flex into the grip. If you find this to be disconcerting, you can continue the taper, or add a butt swell.

    Just take the first dimension, put it at the 0 or 1" mark, depending upon how it is listed, and go down the rod. You should run out of numbers when you run out of rod (see above, if the numbers end before you run out of rod. Figure the halfway point  to be where the ferrule goes, add the length of your choice to each end of each section for the blank.

    Go back and read through that part of the book again. I think it will make more sense the second time around.  (Larry Blan)


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