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This was first published in PENNSYLVANIA ANGLER in Dec. 1971. In those ancient days this was a premier fly fishing magazine, regularly publishing works by Marinaro, Fox and Fink. Today PA. ANGLER covers boating and walleye fishing.

Bobbins (much like large fly tying bobbins) are easily made of 7/8 in. dowels or fishing line spools-- with wire cord holders and rubber bands for tensioning.   To begin binding, the glued section held together with masking tape, etc. is loosely held on the table with a wood clamp -- free to slide, with about 4 inches of the butt end extending off the edge of the table. Now the cords from both bobbins are knotted together - Then holding a bobbin in each hand the knot is located on the top and at the end of the protruding bamboo with the heavy end of the bamboo section pointed at the rodmaker's navel. The bobbin in the right hand is wound clockwise around the assembly taking a turn so that it hangs down about a half inch past the knot start. The bobbin in the left hand is wound counter clockwise taking a turn in the other direction again progressing approximately 1/2 inch. This sequence results in a torqueless wrap -- no twist.  After 6 or 8 inches of binding are completed the section can be reversed -- since it is much easier to bind toward rather than away from the rodmaker. Binding a section takes 10 minutes tops.   That's about it. Just be careful not to develop any twist because if you bind at all tightly it will be hard to remove, and this does bind tightly. Like I said -- KISS -- ultimate simplicity.   (Bill Fink)


Is an induction motor the same thing as a shaded pole motor?

The dishwasher pump motor I tried for my homemade power strop didn't have enough torque and crapped out on me... I need to go in another direction.   The two options I'm looking at are:

1)  $35 Home Depot bench grinder, use with a fan motor speed control (this will work if the bench grinder has a shaded pole motor)

2)  Use a low rpm continuous duty motor from the Surplus Center, $20 (the pain here is that the motor must be mounted, leveled, squared, and rig some kind of tool rest)  (Kyle Druey)


    Shaded Pole - a heavy wire is wrapped around one "pole" of the winding, hence the name "shaded pole". The shaded pole provides  the initial change in magnetic field that starts the motor. A typical use for a shaded pole motor would be a humidifier, or the electronic damper on your furnace. These are typically high rpm, very low torque motors that are coupled with a gearbox to  provide the necessary operating torque/speed range.

    An induction motor is typical of the motors found in heavier duty applications. One example would be most table saws. An induction motor typically requires a capacitor to start. It cannot be controlled with a simple resistance type switch. My guess would be that the grinder motor will be an induction motor.

    What rpm range are you aiming for with the power strop? The typical speeds you will find on a bench grinder are 1750 or 3450. Bear in mind that  the rpm of the grinder is only half the equation, the diameter of the wheel or strop determines the actual surface feet per minute. I haven't played with a power strop yet.  (Larry Blan)

    There are some condenser fan motors used on the outdoor units of air conditioners that are induction motors and that have a speed of 800 to 825 RPM.  These are normally found on high efficiency units.  If you know a service technician you might find a motor out of a unit that has been replaced.  Again the motor will have to be mounted as they don't typically have a cradle mount. This is if you are looking for a lower speed motor.  (Dick Fuhrman)

    If the budget is tight, just use an old leather belt for a strop. For that matter, I just use the palm of my hand, but you would have to see my hands to appreciate that. If you are going to use some sort of speed control, then you have to have the type of motor that is intended for that use, one that is not will just burn up. Sorry, I don't remember what that type of motor is called, but I do know that a table saw or grinder motor won't work.  (John Channer)

    Guys!  A shop teacher taught me this (when I was about 35!) when sharpening edged tools such as gouges and wood carving tools, (planes would apply here) once the edge is very sharp, run the edge with a "buffing wheel" first with Red rouge and then with white.  a standard Bench grinder with two cloth buffing wheels works well.  Don't cut into the wheel, buff away from the handle end so that the edge gets a nice mirror finish.  Always worked for me with my wood gouges.  Seems to last a while too!  (Mark "the Mysterious One")


I am making a base for my depth gauge. It is from a block of aluminum. The hole (3/8") has been drilled for the shaft and another for a set screw to hold the shaft in place. Now I need to make the groove on the bottom and am wondering about the depth and width that I should use. Any suggestions?  (Randy Tuttle)

    What purpose is the groove for?  (Dick Fuhrman)

      The groove in my base is .280 deep and .380 wide.  For those who wonder why a groove in the base? It is very simple. Instead of using a dial caliper to measure the strip you simply leave the strip in the form and place the dial indicator with a flat tip over the strip resting on the base. The strip is inside the groove and the indicator rest on top of the strip. This will  tell you exactly how much the strip is over the  planing form. No more lifting your strip and measuring it every 5 inches, and no more crushed apex or inaccurate readings.  (Adam Vigil)

        That is a clever idea.  The width should be a little larger than the largest strip you plane and the depth a little deeper than you can easily tell by eye when  you need to plane some more.  (Ernie Harrison)

        Thank you Adam, The groove is also useful when making a PMQ. I lay my strips on a long piece of glass and run the Depth gauge/base over it to obtain a thickness reading, it is very fast.

        For those who want to see a picture, it explains a lot, go here and look at Ron Grantham's base.  Mine is not nearly as elegant but everything was done without a mill or lathe. Just a drill and a Dremel, next will be a tap & die set.  (Randy Tuttle)

        Interesting idea, but how can you check if the strip is equilateral?  (Tim Stoltz)

          I use my 60 degree gauge for threads. If you want to measure each side of the strip simply flip it in the form and use the indicator.  (Adam Vigil)


I'm searching for some cheap toggle clamps similar to those used in the Bill Waara node press.  I can find lots of them for $13 - $27 each, but I know I have seen them somewhere for less than $10 each.  If you know where I can get a few cheap, please pass the information along.  (Harry Boyd)

    How about eBay or McMaster-Carr???  (Todd Talsma)

    Try on page 343 of the catalog.  G1775   Push type for 7.50 ea.  (Larry Swearingen)

    I think Harbor Fright is carrying them for the prices you're looking for.  (Mark Wendt)

      Woodcraft supply has them @ $11.99, item #143936.  I'm not sure how much shipping/tax might add.  Neil Savage)

      Harbor Freight doesn't show the push type on their web site.  The one we need is $17 from Grizzly.  eBay shipping kills ya.

      Other ideas?  (Harry Boyd)


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