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I have finished my first blank and am waiting for a few supplies to show up so that I can finish this rod.  Well it struck me the other day that I don't have a good way to cut the bamboo at butt of the rod and at the ferrules.  I would like to here some advice in this before I go off and do something wrong and splinter the hell out of this blank.  Oh yea, by the way I do not have access to a lathe.  (Mike Maero)

    I use a fine toothed hack saw. Score it all around and cut it through. A little minor splintering won't hurt anything, the ends will be inside the ferrule or inside the reel seat.  (Darryl Hayashida)

    I always cut from the enamel in. After I have put a cut all the way around on the enamel (outside) I finish the cut so I don't splinter the epidermal.  (Rich McGaughey)

    I was planning on using my rotary tool with a cutting disc. Actually I used it to do the nodes on the outside and the relief on the pith side with the small sanding drums, went a heck of a lot faster and easier than with files. I also used it for cutting the splits to length, fast and easy there too.  (Shane Pinkston)

    I use a fine tooth Japanese saw for the cutting at the butt and ferrules stations, sometimes I've wrapped the blank with masking tape prior to sawing to prevent splintering.  However, for the tips I use a small triangle file and saw the cane with the file, working my way around the blank and eventually the center area will get so thin it can be snapped off or will break off by itself.  Using a file never results in any splintering at all.  In addition, I go slowly and always make sure the tip sections are firmly held.  I hold the tips down with my thumb and index finger leaving a very small gap between where the cut is to be made.

    Other have indicated that they used a saw blade on a Dremel tool but I've been happy with the way I do it so I haven't tried using my Dremel tool.  (Bob Williams)

      I use a small #268 Sandvik saw with 32 TPI blade to cut butts and mids.  I support the blank in the planing form, cut 3/4 ways through, then turn over and finish the cut.  I cut tips with a razor blade by circumscribing the section, then snapping it off.  The planing form supports the tip and the form's end provides a guide against which the blade is held.  (Ted Knott)

    I've found the saws made to cut model railroad track work very well for cane.  I cut part way, then turn the blank 1/3 and cut, turn once more and finish.  Saws are available at hobby shops.  (Neil Savage)

    A fine-toothed hacksaw blade or a very fine-tooth hobby is all that you need to cut a blank to length.  The trick is not to saw all of the way through in one pass.  Instead, saw into the center of the blank from three flats (Numbers 1, 3, and 5, for example.)  There is always a risk of some tearout as a saw comes out of the blank.  By making the last little bit to be cut at the center of the blank, exit tearout is avoided.  Use extreme care when sawing a tip, as the saw can catch and bend the tip quite easily.   In fact, consider using a Stanley utility knife or an Exacto knife to cut into the tip from  each flat.  By simply bearing down with a knife on the tip, you run less risk of breakage.  This will work for a seventy or eighty thousandths tip, but not for the thicker sections.   (John Sabina)

    Don't agonize over it.  I cut mine to length on my bandsaw.  The ends will be inside of a ferrule, a reel seat, or a tip top.  (Robert Kope)

    I use a very fine blade in my Jig saw. Make sure the tension on the saw is set very tight.   I roll the blank through the saw slowly.  The trick is to make sure the blank is firmly against the table top of the saw so it does not vibrate as you pass it through the blade.  Makes a nice clean cut.  (Pete Lawrence)

    I use a hand held fine toothed hacksaw blade cutting from all sides toward the center. Whatever works for you, make sure the blank is supported properly.  (Hank Woolman)

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