A full view of the first sharpening wheel set-up I built

A full view of the second sharpening wheel set-up I built and currently use in my shop

A closer, end  view of the first sharpening wheel showing the blade and stop block set-up

End view of the current  sharpening wheel showing the stop blocks

Motor and arbor without the wheel mounted

A closer view of the arbor mounted to the motor.  Though they do not show in this photo, there are two set screws which fasten the arbor to the motor's shaft

A Blue, green, and yellow diamond paste compounds in their syringes. I've found the blue too coarse for my tastes. and the green mostly used for intermediate steps

Green homing compound works great on steel blades, but will not do the job on carbide tipped blades

Contact cement used to adhere the leather to the wooden wheel

Because the first wheel I built is not as wide as a plane iron I built the second wheel.  You can see the carbide brazed to the tip of this iron

This wheel is about the right width

A better view of the stop blocks on the first wheel.  I positioned these at first by trial and error, then used screws and glue to keep things in place. One is 35 degrees, the other 40 degrees.

Stop blocks for the wheel I now use.  First set the butt of the blade against the block, then slowly lean the bevel of the blade into the turning wheel. Be sure the wheel turns away from you!