The first and second rods I ever made I used multiple coats of a amber based finish, polished them out, then waxed the rods repeatedly. I've fished those rods in pouring rain all day, and never have noticed that either suffered anything detrimental.  (Martin-Darrell)

Someone with more experience than I can add to or correct what I read, but I DID read somewhere (in a furniture restoration catalog or book I think) that if done correctly, there should never be more than one coat of wax on a piece. The idea of an application is to rework the undercoat and/or remove it with the new! The conclusion was that it's pointless to wax several times in a row as, if you're doing it right, you wind up with the same thickness film as you had after the first app.  (Art Port)

If you put multiple coats of wax on a rod, you will have wax buildup around guide feet but some flossing with a soft cloth takes care of this. The coat will get thicker if you don't buff enough, as well. Just some experiences I've had with Butcher's.   (Reed Curry)

A stiff toothbrush for removing the wax or polish from around the guides works real well.  Never thought of flossing.  (Tony Spezio)

Got a rod here I want to polish a little, but it has already been waxed a few times.  Is it necessary to remove the wax before attempting to polish the varnish?  If so, what will safely remove wax without harming the finish?  (Harry Boyd)

I do not think you have to remove the wax but mineral spirits (sub turps) will do it.   (Marty DeSapio)

I would say that you do have to remove it, and either Turpentine or mineral spirits would do the trick.  (Ralph Moon)

Turps.  (Reed Curry)

Yeah.  Or mineral spirits.  (Brian Creek)

What is a good brand of wax for use in protecting the finish on a rod?  (Kurt Clement)

Butcher's Brand Bowling Alley Wax seems to be working just fine for me. Home Depot sells it; it is the white container. I cannot remember who recommended it, but several on the list have said they have used it for years.  (Bob Maulucci)

I have used Butchers wax on my rods for over 30 years and I think Jack Young recommended it to me.  (Bret Reiter)

We had this discussion several months ago, and at the risk of starting another wax war, the more pedestrian types on the List use Butcher's Brand Bowling Alley wax, or something named equally obscure and common, while we effete snobs use Renaissance Wax, by appointment to Her Majesty, The Queen, of course.  (Martin-Darrell)

Or, of course, Briwax, which is a double threat/benefit; you can get high on the solvents in it while you're polishing the rod!  (Art Port)

I guess I must be pretty pedestrian ...I've been using Malm's classic car wax  :-}  (Dennis Higham)

Those who wax rods for added shine or protection, what wax do you use?  (Henry Mitchell)

I really like Antiquax from England. It has Carnuba & Beeswax in it.

You can get it from most woodworking stores.  (Jeff Fultz)

I use Birchwood-Casey gun stock wax.  (Tom Bowden)

Butcher's bowling alley wax is super stuff. Hard! I waxed all my first rods. If I had to do it over again, though, I would not do it. Why? Because these rods have received heavy use over the years and I would like to put another coat of varnish on them.  Before varnish can touch them, I need to make sure all the wax is off the rod and from around the wraps and guides. That is a pain. Not impossible but I had not thought of it ahead of time.  (Timothy Troester)

Turpentine takes wax right off.  (David Zincavage)

I use Butcher's wax. Take care to avoid getting any on the cork, however.  I think the wax has a certain amount of turpentine in it (to keep it soft), and that solvent is rough on cork.

It's a good idea to wax one's rods.  Moisture could otherwise penetrate  a slight chip in the varnish,  and  the wax extends the life of  the varnish.  Since Jim Payne's varnish is both delicate and irreplaceable, I am especially careful to keep my Paynes waxed.  (David Zincavage)

Any paste wax will work just fine. I wouldn't use Pledge, but since I haven't used it, I can't say for sure that it wouldn't be just fine too.  (John Channer)

Pledge contains silicone. Don't use it on your rod!  (Scott Bearden)

Why not? I can understand not wanting silicone on a rod before varnishing or in the shop but once the rod is finished, what harm does it do?  (Jim Lowe)

Silicone is extremely hard to clean up.  It repels water very well, but it also repels varnish and some thinners. If it isn't thoroughly cleaned off a surface you will get fisheyes in the finish. Everything can look clean and you won't know there is some residue until its too late. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. At some point every rod will need to be refinished. Pledge makes a great polish, no doubt, but it won't ever touch anything but my furniture.  (Scott Bearden)

Wayne's microwave wax as described in his book! Best stuff in the world and you make it yourself!  (Joe Arguello)

I have used Butcher's wax on my rods for over 35 years & I have had no ill effects.  It will clean up on the rod with mineral spirits if you want to take it off.  (Bret Reiter)

Renaissance wax from Woodcraft. It's a hard wax, lots of carnuba in it.  (Steve Weiss)

Thanks for all the wax suggestions. I had some Briwax at home and wasn't happy with it's shine, then read the fine print and it said not to use where it might get heavy water exposure. I fall in too much for that.  (Henry Mitchell)

I have some Briwax, too, but I found that I didn't like it so I went to Minwax Paste Finishing Wax.  It works extremely well.  (Hal Manas)