What is the general consensus on reel seat types to rod weight? That is do you guys have a weight cut off for slip ring or would you use one on any weight rod and what is the preference on up to down locking. (Mike Hawkins)

In my opinion, you use what you like the look of, or the feel of, or what the buyer wants.

It seems to me to be worrying unnecessarily about a few grams of reel seat when we are about to seat a reel and fly line on it that weighs many times that.

If we were REALLY serious about weight and function, we would all be using those carbon fiber and stainless steel reel seats that are made by Fuji. But that's not why we select reel seats - we pay lip service to efficiency, but we actually use them because they look classy! (Peter McKean)

I agree with Peter's comments ( the customer may not always be right but he is paying!)but for what it is worth; and as I have just finished writing to a customer on this very subject.

I recommend for my rods that cap and ring are used up to 7ft 6in and screw lock above that, arbitrary choice really. Double sliding rings used only on midge rods.

There are a lot less commercially available down locking screw lock fittings out there than up locking ones so draw your own conclusions. Ironically this last issue can be of some significance as it alters the position of the reel and hence the balance of the rod. I have made sliding ring fittings in both up and down locking and surprisingly perhaps the uplocking type appears to be more secure. (Gary Marshall)

I use cap and ring seats up to #6 wt line(some say 5 wt should be the cut off) and anything heavier gets a down locking reel seat. I don't like the looks of an uplocking and that #^*^&% protrusion sticking out behind the reel on an uplocking seat always seems to catch in my shirt sleeve in cooler weather. Causes a nasty wave in the cast and jerks the wrist pretty good too. (Will Price)