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I'm looking at buying some drill bits for making ferrules and was wondering which was better, bits with 118 degree split points or bits with 135 degree split points? I'm thinking the 135 degree since it will give me a slightly flatter hole in the ferrule. (Bob Williams) For drilling solid bar use the 135 degree parabolic bits. They take an aggressive feed but the swarf will come out in in one piece. The enemy of ferrule making is heat and the swarf created by a jobber drill will enlarge the hole. I use a parabolic for thru drilling then use auto screw machine length drills (use inch, letter, metric to leave .005" for the reamer). After recently spending a day with Tom Morgan and Glenn Brackett at Winston I have also picked up a set of reamers that are .005 undersized and have started honing the female with a blind lap as is their practice. Exceptional finish and they really pop. (Jerry Young)
In the sixth edition of Power Fibers Thomas Ausfeld has a nice article on making ferrules. In his article there is a chart on dimensions he uses, reamer sizes are listed in decimal inches. To convert to 64th’s multiply by 64 - ie. 0.203 x 64 = 12.99 or 13/64. Drill 1 or 2 64th’s under, then ream to exact size. Or use the decimal listing and buy reamers and drills accordingly. McMaster-Carr lists them both ways. Of course I've only made 1 ferrule so far, so take this advice as you will. (Darryl Hayashida)
Is the pilot hole drilled so that it is 2/64 smaller, and then ream to final diameter by 1/64s? (Kyle Druey) I'm still a neophyte at this, but this is what I would do. Drill the holes the bamboo is going into at 12/64ths if that's the size you want. The hole on other side on the female (where the male slides into) will be 2/64ths larger, or 14/64ths, so drill it first at 12/64 or 13/64ths and ream out to 14/64ths. You can use a reamer 2/64ths larger than the drilled hole with no ill effects. Make sure you leave enough wall thickness for a 14/64ths hole of course. If you want, you can ream out to 15/64ths, leaving enough wall thickness again. That's the beauty of making your own. If for some reason you want to deviate from what's published, you can. The hole on the female that the male fits into can be any size you want - because you make the male that fits into it. (Darryl Hayashida) It seems there is 'some latitude' in the dimensions for a super Z. I've run into the same question you pose and have decided that I will do it my way. Consider this for a size 12: D1= bamboo outside dimension This is the way I make a size 12. (Don Greife)
I've studied the outline by Dave LeClair published in an older issue of Power Fibers, but it is very basic and assumes you know what you are doing in the first place (which I don't). SOOO. I have a couple of questions: 1. would anyone care to publish a detailed primer? 2. is a reamer necessary for each size, or will one reamer fit several sizes? Which reamers would you suggest? 3. I've bought a fair amount of NS tubing in sizes from 11-15. I'm pretty sure that the wall thickness isn't sufficient to machine a welt on the female. Anyone out there know how to apply a welt to NS tubing? (Bill Hoy) Tom Ausfeld has a very detailed primer in the upcoming Power Fibers (January 15, 2001). It includes his detailed step by step process and good pictures. He is a very accomplished rodmaker and ferrule maker. I was very impressed with his items when he visited me this summer. (Bob Maulucci)
I've been looking at the cutting tools I'll need to make ferrules and I am confused there are so many different types. I saw the ones that are just square bars of steel, I am assuming you have to grind the ends into a cutting tool. Hard to do since I don't know what they are supposed to look like to begin with. Can I use those cutting tools with the triangular inserts? Or are they for something else (thread cutting?). Maybe I should use the carbide tools? Is a parting tool really necessary, or can I use the point of one of the other cutting tools? How do you form the tapered part of the ferrule? If I try to make ferrules out of rod stock, what do I need to drill out and bore out the female side? I can see that drilling out the part the bamboo goes into isn't that critical, but the part the male slides into must be fairly critical, and I don't think a drill is precise enough. I remember someone saying I need a reamer - is a boring bar a reamer? Thanks in advance for your help! (Darryl Hayashida) A couple of good places to start are the Varmint Al Site and Mini-Lathe.com. Varmint Al has some pictures of some HSS bits sharpened for various duties. Both URLs have a bunch of useful links also. For the drilling, I went to J&L Industrial. They sell individual imported drill bits. Not bad bits and cheaper and more important, you can get them in screw machine length. These are shorter than the normal length you see making them ideal for use with the mini lathe. The also have import reamers. You need to buy 2 each of each size of drill you want. I broke mine up into several orders. You also need a reamer for each size. I bought a set of three, a reamer and two drill bits for each 64th that I expected to build a reamer for. Now why two bits? The first is to drill the hole. The second you use a Dremel tool to cut the taper off the point of the second bit. It needs to be flat on the end with just enough angle to cut the tapered bottom of the drilled hole into a flat bottomed hole. After drilling and flat bottoming the hole you have drilled, ream 1 or 2 64th larger. The final reamer would be the inside diameter of the female and the Outside Diameter of the male so you would start the drilling at 1 or 2 64th undersize. I use 1 64th but you may choose more reaming. Now look at Varmint Al's web page and check out the dial indicator mounted on the tailstock. I preferred to mount a piece of angle al stock to the indicator and connect to the tailstock with a small C clamp. This setup allows you to drill within a few thousandths, exactly the depth you want. No guesswork or boring complete through with one of the drills. You may decide on buying a set of collets later on. You can use the three jaw chuck for holding the ferrule but it is a tedious thing. To much pressure and you deform the ferrule, to little and the material spins ruining the finish. ER works really well for this type of work but with using collets you need to make a adaptor for each size. Since the ferrules has the reinforcing ring on the female, you make an adaptor that is a tube with an OD greater than the ring diameter and about 3/4" long. It's inside diameter is the same as the outside diameter of the female ferrule plus a few thousandths. Just drill or ream (ream is better) and cut a slot lengthwise the entire length of the tube. A screwdriver can be used to widen the slot slightly (increase diameter of tube). Now this adapter will fit over the ferrule and can be held by the collet (or the three jaw chuck) so the other end can be finished. My steps are this way (starting with a length of rod cut to the desired length for the ferrule). 1st. Drill the female end to the desired depth, 1 or 2 64th" undersize. 2nd. use the second bit to square the hole bottom. 3rd. ream to desired diameter. (for the initial drilling, I use my 3 jaw chuck). 4th. Reverse the blank and drill to the diameter for bamboo. Use the second bit to square the bottom. 5th. Use the 3 jaw chuck to hold the blank by the female end. Turn to desired diameter for outside of the female ferrule. 6th. Reverse the blank. A collet or chuck can be used at this time (also, the adaptor can be used but is not absolutely necessary as the wall thickness for the bamboo end is still thick enough to resist deforming or slippage). Turn the female end of the ferrule to desired dimensions. 7th. Reverse the blank, use the adaptor and place the female end in the collet or chuck and turn the bamboo to desired shale and dimensions; IE necked down and/or tapering. 8th. I use a wooden dowel to finish the outside of the female ferrule. I chuck a handy length of slightly oversize dowel in the lathe, turn on the lathe and (with a pair of leather gloves on) slide the ferrule on the wooden dowel. The ferrule can now be spun up, sanded and polished. 9th. To cut the serration’s, I use a slightly different method than most. I also bought a couple of the small, thin jewelers or slotting blades. I believe the ones I bought have a 1/4" mounting hole. I turned an arbor out of brass that would allow the blade to be used on a Dremel tool. Finished it looks like the cutoff tool and disk. Now I chuck or use the collet to hold the female end of the ferrule. The Dremel holding the slotting saw is mounted to the toolpost. The milling attachment on Varmint Al's web page or other attachment (I have a block of aluminum with a 1/2" hole with a set screw that holds a Dremel flexible shaft.) The lathe head is set at the desired point for a slot and the Dremel turned on and the compound slide is used to cut the slot. Make sure to unplug the lathe before you start. I have a bad habit of reaching for the lathe switch rather than the Dremel. 10th. Turn the chuck (collet) the desired number of degrees and cut the second slit. You can cut 6 slots or if you measure and set up correctly, you can do it in 3. I think I am out of juice. (Onis Cogburn) If you account for the tip of the drill and add that to the female depth (0.070-0.080"), you'll have a small space for an air pocket when the ferrule is put together. I Drill 1/64th under reamer size. You can use tooling inserts and such but they aren't cheap. HSS tools are very cheap and when you get the hang of it, there is nothing to grinding up a tool. I made my own parting tool with HSS stock. For the taper, I ground a tool from HSS to match the taper angle I want. (Tom Ausfeld) I really liked the diamond bit tool holder and insert from Valentine. It left the best finish and you will probably never get through all 4 cutting edges on the insert. I have been using some nice Rousche cutters that Jerry Young sent me when a dirtbag utility guys ripped my Valentine off (thanks again Jerry). I think these new ones are ceramic. If you are going to sharpen your own, I think HSS is the best cutting edge. It's better than the carbide ones I have tried. I think a parting tool is a necessity, but you could probably make one from a tool blank. Either way. I think the proper height of the tool edge to the part is the critical part. For reamers, I have the straight fluted chuckable type. I ream two sizes up from what I drill. I do not make many ferrules anymore since I have a good source, but all the ones I have made came out nice using these tools. I use a Sherline compound slide to cut at an angle, but before I had it, sandpaper or a Swiss file held at an angle seemed to work well too. I recommend Tom Ausfeld's article for ferrule making from the January Power Fibers. (Bob Maulucci) Can I use those cutting tools with the triangular inserts? Or are they for something else (thread cutting?). Maybe I should use the carbide tools? I used to grind all my own cutters, but I use the indexable carbide inserts now and find it is easier and works just as good. There are a lot of different inserts out there, depending on what you are going to use it for. You want an insert with a slight radius on the point. You don't want a pointed insert, as these are used for cutting threads. I get mine from MSC. If you are interested, I can get the part numbers for you, along with the part number for the holder. Is a parting tool really necessary, or can I use the point of one of the other cutting tools? I use a small groove cutter for my cutting off of the ferrules. It is a small insert that mounts to a holder, also from MSC. They come in different thickness and length. They work better for me than making a cut off tool. If I try to make ferrules out of rod stock, what do I need to drill out and bore out the female side? I can see that drilling out the part the bamboo goes into isn't that critical, but the part the male slides into must be fairly critical, and I don't think a drill is precise enough. I remember someone saying I need a reamer - is a boring bar a reamer? A boring bar is not a reamer. You would use a boring bar when boring out bar stock for a reel seat. What you will need, is a lot of reamers. You will have to drill out the stock to remove most of the metal, then you will have to ream the female to size. You can only ream a couple of thousandths at a time. so you will need a few reamers for each size ferrule you want to make. You will need the appropriate size reamer for the size of the female you are making, along with two or three reamers in .002 to .003 in. smaller in steps, to work your way up to the finished size. That's one reason I like using the tubing to make my ferrules. Although I do have a lot of the necessary reamers here in my shop. It is a lot easier making them with tubing. There is no reaming involved. (Dave LeClair)
Campbell Tools sells a lot of stuff for model makers (small lathes, mills, materials, etc.) and Blue Mountain Machinery sell machinery and parts for metalworking hobbyists (i.e., stuff for around 9-10" lathes). Blue Mountain currently has the distribution and manufacture rights for what used to be the non-CNC portion of the Emco-Maier (Austrian) brand of lathe that made the later Unimats and Maximats. One other brand you may wish to investigate is Sakai. They have been advertising on the back cover of Home Shop Machinist magazine (out of Traverse City, Michigan). For getting a nice finish on metal, you'll want to have a "power longitudinal feed" on whatever lathe you get, if you want to turn anything while mounted to the blank, you'll want to compare the spindle hole size to the diameter of your rod blanks. (George Bourke)
My questions are: What do I need to cut the slits/serrations? I assume I need an arbor and a saw, size and number of teeth, I have no idea. Also need something to hold/index the ferrule. Is this a good opportunity to get a mill? (Don Schneider) In my shop, I use a jewelers saw and arbor to gut my serrations. You can get them from MSC tool CO. Arbor # 08271322 cost around $30.00 You should get more than one blade, as they break easily. (Dave LeClair) I bought a saw arbor from Grizzly that is a kinda "fits all" size blades. It is not round and has eaten up several nearly finished ferrules. If you have a lathe you might consider making your own from 1/2" brass or aluminum. Decide on a saw blade you intend to use for ferrules and make the arbor to fit that blade. I plan to make one for myself. (Don Greife) A simple way to index the slits is to use the 3-jaw chuck to mark where to cut the slits. (Kyle Druey) Thanks for the tips. I almost picked up the Grizzly arbor when I was up there to their place in Bellingham the other day, what a candy store! Maybe I'll get one anyway and turn it down to fit my needs. I also like the idea of mounting a Dremel tool to the tool post. (another fixture to make). Seems like I spend more time building tools, jigs and exploring ideas than rods, but then again, that's the fun of all this. I also have more of an appreciation of the Old Masters. What tools did they have to work with - a "Swiss Army Knife"? (Don Schneider) Don't sell them short. An old master is just that... a master of the craft. Many of them were master machinists, inventors, and excellent fly fishers. They invented and built good equipment and turned out more rods in shorter time than I could ever hope to. (Steve Weiss) One more thing... a simple way to make a jig to hold the ferrules while slitting is to drill out small lengths of aluminum square stock. I also have the Homier 7x12, and I used 5/8" square aluminum, 2 inches long. Secure it in to tool post, and drill out the ends by chucking a drill bit in to the 3 jaw chuck of the lathe, you may have to push the dead center on the other end of the square stock while drilling. Drill holes that are 0.75 deep, with diameters of 9/16, 13/16, 17/16, and 20/16. You end up with holes on each end of the jigs, with four different diameters. Build up the ferrules with masking tape so that it fits in one of the holes. After cutting a slit, just rotate the ferrule until you are lined up with the next indexing mark. This is probably not the best explanation, I can send you some JPGs if you want a picture of the jigs. I tried Dave LeClair's wonderful ferrule slitting fixture/indexer, but the jig doesn’t fit in the tool post of the 7x12 when a ferrule is secured in it. Tony Spezio also has an excellent and simple design that is explained in a back issue of Power Fibers. Good luck and have fun, making ferrules at home is a blast! (Kyle Druey)
The question that I have is if anyone with a Homier lathe is using a collet chuck and collets to hold the bar stock while turning and facing. I would also like to know where you bought them and the part numbers if possible for the chuck and collets. (Tom Peters) After much research (much of it from the archives of this list) and the recent thread on lathes, I have decided that I will probably purchase the 7x12 model when the time comes. What I have not been able to find are the dimensions of the base (footpad) of this model. Space is a premium in my "shop" and at about 90 pounds, it would be somewhat permanent in its location. Just how big is this baby. (Bill Bixler) Approximately 28" x 10" (Don Schneider) Go to Little Machine Shop for all of your homier lathe needs. I deal with them and they are honest and fast. Check out there links page. You will need to check the accuracy of your chuck and tailstock. Do this by checking out the articles by Jose Rodriquez. Make sure you go to Mini-Lathe.com. A collet chuck can be purchased from little machine shop or micro mark. It is the most accurate method for small stock but you do not have to have it to make ferrules. I suggest you look at Power Fibers 6 for Tom Ausfeld’s article on ferrule making. It will show you what you need to know. Except info on the jig for slitting. As for chucking up ferrule parts after they have been machined such as a male when you are facing it I use a plastic soda straw and slit it to fit the ferrule for protection. For reamers and cutters jewelers saw etc. I use KBC Tools. I have one locally and stop in. But any good tool company such as Airgas or Enco will have what you need. I get my NS rod from Sheffield Knife Supply. They have 752 NS rod in 5/16 for a few bucks a foot. That will allow you to make ferrules in 14 down. (Adam Vigil) Along with what Adam has posted, another good web site is Varmint Al's. He's a gunsmith and reloader, but has some excellent tips on the site. (Mark Wendt) I have just purchased a Homier lathe as one of my personal Christmas presents and have started to make NS ferrules on it. The problem now is that the automatic feed quit working. Has anyone had this problem with the Homier and what have you done to fix the problem. Any help would be appreciated. PS: Miracles do happen at Christmas. I have just about completed my first NS ferrule set and it even pops when I pull the male out from the female. (Tom Peters) Did it just lock up? I had this happen, It split the gear. On the tail stock end of the lead screw there is a nut that is used to take up any end play on the lead screw. In the end of the nut there is a allen socket set screw. This screw locks the nut on the lead screw. If this set screw came loose or was not tightened it will tighten on the lead screw while the lead screw is in use cutting towards the head stock. Will loosen cutting away from the head stock. When adjusting nut jambs against the lead screw support it will lock up the lead screw keeping it from turning. As a result on mine, it split the plastic drive gear. No real big problem, just a nuisance. Remove the end cover, the gear will be in plain sight. It is the 80 tooth gear right out in the open. Now about this gear. My son was going to Springfield so I had him get one for me from Grizzly. same gear on their 7X12 and 7X10. It cost 22.00. I had a fit, called Harbor Freight and the same gear cost 3.15, I ordered four of them at a total cost including shipping for just over 13.00 Had them in a week. I compared them to the Grizzly gear and they are identical right down to the tool marks. Hope this helps, I think this is one of the better 7X12 lathes on the market. More features and smoother than the others. (Tony Spezio) Had a problem with the gear drive train not long after I got my 7x12. On mine, the problem was the sleeve on the idler shaft was longer than the shaft. Result, not enough end clearance when the screw to hold the gears on the shaft was tightened. Froze up and took the center out of a 80 tooth gear. Made sure the replacement shat and sleeve had clearance, lube & check often. (Don Schneider)
I don't know what the answer to your question may be, but I can promise you that your $500 lathe purchase will more than double by the time you have tooled-up adequately and stocked all the sizes of tubing you'll need. (Bill Harms) If you want to make ferrules to save money, that really don't work. If you want to make them just because, then a lathe is the way to go. Ferrules can be made without a lathe after a fashion using tubing that is hard to find any more. I was making all of my ferrules but find it is more practical to just buy what I use on a regular basis. I still make what I need and don't have on hand. Tony Larson makes great ferrules at a reasonable price. It is less than my time and material. Just passing this on, not at all trying to talk you out of making ferrules though it may sound that way. You can get a good metal lathe for just over 300.00. (Tony Spezio) Ferrule making for us with little or no talent presents the kind of challenge we need to keep us out in the shed and away from things going on in the kitchen. Even the "cheap" lathes are costly and require a significant amount of maintenance and realignment. If you've never run a metal lathe before, by all means buy one and learn to use it through the school of hard knocks. Honestly, it is a lot of fun and I've found, adds a lot to the joy of rod making. Now, this may well sound like I've been there, done that, and really know what I'm talking about and am some what of an authority on these subjects. Well, the facts are that the longer I struggle with these things, the greater is my understanding of how little I know about them. It's fun and by all means try it. Today I made a set of ferrules from rod stock, that have a beautiful snap when pulled apart. Now that is a rarity for me. (Don Greife) In Milward's book he outlines a method to make ferrules from brass tubing. Seems inexpensive and simple to do. (Kyle Druey) Basically there are two different ways to make a ferrule. Soldered together tubing and machined from solid rod stock. You don't necessarily need a lathe to make a soldered tubing ferrule, but some of the steps will be easier if you do have one. Of course you do need a lathe to machine a ferrule from rod stock. As someone said previously you don't really save money making your own ferrules, especially if you will make only a few 2 piece rods a year. Making your own does give you more options in sizes - for multi-piece rods the tip section ferrule can get down to sizes not readily available, and you can make a ferrule in different metals - I make mine out of aluminum and sometimes 642 aluminum bronze. My recommendation - Buy your ferrules unless you are going to be using ferrules in volume, or want them in odd sizes or different metals. Or not if you want to make them for your own satisfaction of making them yourself. (Darryl Hayashida) I would have to agree with Bill and Tony. If you want to make a decent metal ferrule, it's going to cost you. However, If you are making rods for yourself, you might want to consider an alternate scheme. There should be a lot of stuff in the archives on making bamboo or composite ferrules. Two schemes that I can recommend are Ted Barnhart's graphite/bamboo ferrules, and the taped splice method. Both work nicely, and are functionally excellent in terms of casting performance. Either method can be pursued with minimal cost. (Tom Smithwick) I have two articles in Power Fibers that include bamboo ferrules. One on the Twisted Miss and the other on the PMQ. They work just fine, and are different. (Tony Spezio) I do think it is possible to make 'cheap' ferrules. You need NS tubing and you have to turn down the tubing so it fits snugly into the tubing one size bigger. You can fairly easily do that with a drill (I do!!). You can even make a welt, though I don't bother and haven't had any problems since. Welding can be a bit more difficult, but I have glued a couple of ferrules in stead of welding, and it works... Look for the tubing... (Geert Poorteman) If you are making a few rods then the better buy to save money is Tony Larson’s ferrules or golden witches field grade ferrules. Both run about $30 a set. So for $100 that is 3 sets of ferrules which means 3 rods. That should keep you busy for awhile. But, if you want to have the ability to make reel seats as well as ferrules a lathe is the best investment. The lathe itself is a hobby and is great when you no longer feel like pushing a plane. The best part is if you need something you just make it. There is something special about the "sole authorship" of a cane rod. (Adam Vigil)
Both retrofitting to existing rods, and adding to new rods if possible. (Nick Kingston) I'm not trying to be sarcastic when I ask -- what's the point of witness marks? Each flat and each corner of a bamboo rod serves as a witness mark, albeit removed by an inch or two. Were I to attempt to place a witness mark on the ferrules, I think I would use a tiny hammer and small punch to place a dimple on the welt of the female and the barrel of the male. (Harry Boyd) I agree with Harry. Due to the nature of ferrules on bamboo rods witness marks aren't very effective. They can be decorative (If a bit graphity) however. In addition to a small punch mark (So small that it is functionally useless) on the welt, you can scribe a line on the male using a lathe and a threading bit. Blue the ferrule, then polish of the bluing leaving it in the groove, then clear coat. Looks tacky to me but some like it. You can file a small SHALLOW groove in the welt using a safe file used for cutting screw heads on guns. Blue and polish as above. If you make your own ferrules you can solder a matching welt, or larger diameter tube on the male. Mark as above. This does make for effective witness marks, but is gonna get you in trouble with traditionalist. If you wrap your thread up the barrel of the female to the welt (Like Winston does) you can use all of the methods that the graphite guys do, A spot of paint, feather inlays, weaves etc. Some people like it. I have seen all of the above done. (Dave Kenney) I've never done it, but have you considered a center punch used for marking metal for drilling. You know, it's a device with a pointed tip. You put the tip where you want it, push the handle and at some point it "pops" and will hammer in a little dent. Any good machinist or metal worker will have one to try out. It wouldn't surprise me if you can buy ones with different punch strengths, maybe even adjustable punch strengths. (Rick Crenshaw) Just info on the punches. They are called automatic punches, All three I have are adjustable. (Tony Spezio) Just a comment as to why use witness marks. There are some rod makers who select a certain set of flats upon which to mount the guides, it's called "synchronizing the rod." This is the process by which the "spine" of each rod section is determined and thus dictates where the guides should be placed. See pages 7 & 8 of "Tips and Tapers" for how to do it. In that way if and when a rod is refinished the guides can be placed back on the proper flats. (Ray Gould) I'm just a novice at this but it seems like that's making things way too hard. If its the "spine" you're concerned with you should be able to find that easily enough anyway. If you're going to refinish a rod and not remove the ferrules you probably won't remove the grip or reel seat, so why not mark one of those instead? As a mater of fact, if your reel seat insert is mortised you have the orientation for which flats the guides go on immediately. That way you never run the risk of deforming or weakening the ferrules. (Joe Behar) Regardless of what is used, automatic center punch or small hammer and punch, you need to make sure that when marking the welt you don't deform the female ferrule. I think you'll want to have the ferrule assembled before marking. Even then, if you are a little too enthusiastic, you might find that the female will go out of round. (Tim Wilhelm) The best way to give your ferrules witness marks, is to get an automatic center punch. Make sure the tip is sharp. Place the point of he punch were you want the mark and push down on the punch. The punch will automatically strike the ferrule. They are usually adjustable for the amount of force you want it to punch. (Dave LeClair) GoldenWitch carries the pin punches that everyone is describing. Works like a champ! (Chris Carlin)
Here's the one I use - it's 1" diameter, and is .100" thick. It does require a mandrel, which is mounted in the headstock chuck on a lathe. You can see the blade here at MSC. (Mark Wendt) I use around a 1 1/4 diameter jewelers saw blade, with a thickness of .008 to serrate my ferrules. I use this in my lathe. The part # for the saw blade is 73289084, this is the 1/4 in diameter hole in the center. The part # for the arbor is 08271314. These are from MSC. Don't scrimp on the arbor, if you use a cheap one, the blade will wobble and give you a very bad looking ferrule. You want to you a good arbor like this one. I also use #73289100 saw blade with a 3/8 center hole and #08271322 arbor for that saw blade. If you do a lot of large ferrules, you may want to go with the 3/8 set up. (Dave LeClair)
- Chucking reamers (I'm going with 10-13/64th to start) Sound right? (Lee Orr) I use the super Z ferrule size chart for dimensions needed for each size ferrule. Starting with the male I use a centering bit so I know my drill bit will start exactly on center. Then I drill this out ... without using a reamer. In fact the only time I use a reamer is for the female. After drilling the hole I chuck, from the tailstock, a bamboo dowel cut from my ferrule cutter that will fit exactly into my X/64" drilled hole. This helps stabilize your metal while you turn it down to size. Now I am ready to turn to size using my round nose cutter and automatic feed. I try to get this within .003 and make sure you measure ferrule ends and the middle so the male is true. Cut male from bar stock. For the female start out the same way as male. After realizing final outside dimension cut off from bar stock. Put tape on ferrule and put it in the 3 jaw chuck turning it so you can drill out non bamboo side. Drill it out and use reamer. With my dowel inserted for reinforced strength, I place male ferrule back into head stock, no tape. I turn for final filing using the finest file I own constantly checking final dimension with caliper and then using female ferrule for final fit. As you know thickness of smoke determines a good Vs. bad fit if I might paraphrase Wayne C. I made a fixture out of hex brass that is drilled out to accept ferrule and it has a recessed screw holding ferrule in place. I use tape to protecting ferrule finish, I insert fixture into tool post. I have a quick release tool post which works great. Now I can feed my ferrule into slitting saw and after cutting once I then rotate the hex brass for the next cut. It works perfectly for all three cuts. (Doug Alexander) Do you use any cutting fluid during the process? (Steve Weiss) I did but not anymore. The only time I felt it was necessary was reaming the female ferrule. Now I just take my time and feel the cut and operate the lathe at a fairly quick speed, (I'm guessing at 850 RPM). When drilling I will drill about half way and back the bit out, remove shavings and then proceed. I use Duronze and do not know if other metals require cutting fluid. (Doug Alexander)
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