For those using Baginski Bevelers, there is a problem cutting strips that will lay flat on conical surface of the wheel without wrinkling. I came across a link with a discussion of the geometry. The surface is technically speaking the frustum of a cone. Reduced to the situation of interest to rodmakers, one draws two concentric circles on the back of the sandpaper with a compass. For the 60 degree strips the inner radius R1 is 1.1155 times the inner radius of wheel and the outer radius is 1.1155 times the outer radius of it. A 48 degree pie slice out of it will have the ends just meeting without overlap. For a quad strip beveler, the factor would be 1.414 with a 105 degree slice, and for a penta strip beveler the factor would be 1.236 with a 69 degree slice.
I have used epoxy, Barge cement (contact cement) and adhesive backed sandpaper and they all worked fine. Heating the disks with a heat gun works for getting off worn out paper. I have updated my page on implementing a beveler with this information. (Mike McGuire)
That looks like it worked out perfectly. Great info.
I tried this for the first time just recently. I painted the bevel of the disk and rolled it on the back of the sandpaper. I cut this out and epoxied on. Didn't work so hot.
I ended up just putting ~1 cm strips spaced ~1 cm apart along both bevels. They fit together well (the paper doesn't push against paper at the apex) and I figure it will allow better clearing of material. I'm not sure either of those points are an issue with these bevelers, but it certainly simplified the gluing process.
I haven't completed the unit yet, so no info on results. Maybe it will be too short on cutting power... (Conor McKenna)
In my article about the beveler, I included a couple of drawings showing how to use a geometric projection method to make the pattern for the abrasive. It seems like I am the only person who understands that method! The alternative I have suggested otherwise is simply placing (or taping) a piece of paper on the conical surface of one of the disks and marking the edges on the paper. Beats the paint method, because you can see if the paper is properly arranged on the conical surface. The paper need only cover part of the conical surface.
I find using several sections of abrasive easier than trying to get a single piece to fit properly. Very small gaps do not seem to matter, so long as the glue is strong enough. I use the same heat-settable epoxy that I use for building blanks. I do not heat set it, but figure that maybe it will stick even tighter if it gets hot!
Rolf Baginski says that he gets about the equivalent of 60 rods from one application of abrasive to his wheels. He uses the same epoxy I do to glue on the abrasive. We both use the abrasive from a belt-sander belt. (Tim Anderson)
I have recently worked out an implementation of a Baginski Beveler based on a Harbor Freight bench grinder. It turned out rather nice and compact, so I did up a page on my personal site describing it, including how I machined the cutting wheel. It's sure a lot quieter than the Medved Beveler I was using. A beveling session no longer drives my s.o. out of the house. It's faster, and no burn marks, no chatter marks, no destroyed strips. (Mike McGuire)
Does anyone know of plans for Rolf Baginski rough mill sounds interesting. (John Jones)
You will find my article on the Baginski beveller in Power Fibers (Issue 36). There are no specific plans there, but you should find enough information to build the device. (Tim Anderson)
I saw the article and think I may build one this winter. How often does the sandpaper have to be replaced on the grinding wheel? (Greg Reeves)
The abrasive lasts a long time. You will notice that I tried to avoid calling it "sandpaper" in the article because I think the sanding-belt material is better than paper backed abrasive. After several rods using my wheel, I can see no indication that the abrasive has degraded in any way. Rolf Baginski is a commercial builder with quite a high output and uses his wheel for all of them. He has not mentioned needing to replace the abrasive often. (Tim Anderson)
I asked Rolf about that. I believe he said he gets about 6 rods out of the abrasive discs. I have seen Rolf's machine working. It does a nice job, and is very quick. (Tom Smithwick)
I have used my disk for about 5 rods (4 of mine and one of a friend) and still see no sign that the abrasive needs replacing. The difference may be that I run my disk at about 2500 rpm and Rolf runs his at 10,000 rpm. In addition, I usually make about 3 passes per strip while Rolf commonly takes a strip down to its final rough dimension in one pass. As a commercial builder, he saves time with his procedure, especially since he has a few spare disks lined up.
I believe the machine Tom saw was Rolf's original model which he now uses for his rodbuilding classes. (Tim Anderson)
What grit is appropriate for the wheel?? (Roland Cote)
It is in issue 36 of Power Fibers Article. I believe it is 36 or 50 grit. (Greg Reeves)
As the author of that article, I am happy to confirm that 36-50 grit is the recommendation. (Tim Anderson)]
Just for your information, I saw the type of beveler more then 16 years ago at a Dutch rodbuilders group in Venlo, Netherland. It has also been shown on a Fly Fair in Zwolle, Netherland. As for the rod winding machine where Piet Veugeler is the inventor it might well be that he also invented the mill. (Christian Meinke)
Rolf never claimed to be the inventor. As I mentioned in the article, he simply does not know if somebody else made it before him. Of course, it is entirely possible that the beveler you saw in the Netherlands was Rolf's. At about that time he regularly attended rodbuilders' meetings in the Netherlands and he also has good friends among the Dutch rodbuilding group who could have picked up the idea from him. As an aside, you will find a picture of him at one of those meetings in his book! (Tim Anderson)
Has anyone built a Baginski Beveler profiled in issue 36 of Power Fibers? It seems like a rather easy version of a roughing beveler to construct as well as operate. The only part that is confusing to me concerns the abrasive strips for the wheels. What is the process to cut the strips to fit the wheels? (Ron Delesky)
It seems a number of people have. There is a discussion on Clarks List that I just added to today, so you should be able to find it easily.
The article shows how to make a pattern for the strips, but it seems that most people can't figure out what the heck I was showing. The easiest way to make the pattern is to lay a piece of paper on the conical part of one-half of the disk and mark out the shape. Make the total curve out of several pieces.
Cutting the abrasive is easy. As mentioned in the article, belt-sander belts are the best source of durable abrasive. Cut such a belt so it lays flat, mark the pattern on the cloth back, and cut with a box knife along the marked lines. Do not try to cut through, all you want to do is cut most of the fibers in the cloth. After cutting around the pattern lines, bend the belt material and it will break along the scored lines. (Tim Anderson)
I found as Tim suggests is to make the discs and use them as templates. I actually made a copy of Tim's beveler using my Shopsmith also, Works like a darn. However I have found after the first discs using 6-7 sections of strips that it is better to minimize the pieces used, and since I am using belts from my Shopsmith which are about 36x 6 it is easy to cut as little as 2 strips for each disc, I now have have a spare set of discs, and back up strips as needed, it saves set up time if one fails. (Keith Paskin)
I just started using my Baginski beveler last night for the first time. The paper cutting process was a bit of a pain for me. The article has diagrams to describe it better than I will here, but sometimes some things click differently for folks. You'll need a compass like geometry class or woodworking to draw a circle, or a string and a tack and a pencil. You'll need cloth backed sand paper, coarse as you can get. Got mine at the Fastenall store. And a pair of scissors that you are ok with ruining. The radius of the circle of the paper needs to be about 5/4 ths of the radius of the piece of wood that you will be mounting it on for a 60 degree beveler. Scribe a circle that size on the paper and then scribe a circle inside that. The two concentric circles should be larger than the cutting surface of your wheel. Then cut along the outer line, and make a cut into the circle so you can cut out the inner circle. Then you can lay that on the cutting surface of the wheel and fiddle with it until it lays correctly on that angled cutting surface. I used 5 minute epoxy and gooped up the paper and the wheel and then glued it on. So far, it works like a champ, but it is quite dusty.
Just try it with regular paper first, then it will make sense. I kept my paper one as a template from here on out. (John Wagner)