Thanks everyone for all the info and links to the Bevelers. Now a couple of questions for those that use them.

I take it that the ones with the "V" bit only require 1 pass to rough them in. One adjustment as to depth then run a bunch through, then change for the tips and run the next batch?

On the ones with a straight cutter and a "V" form I take it that you have to make an adjustment between the first and second roughing passes? Set up for the first pass, run the batch through, then make an adjustment to  close the gap a bit and run everything through again on the second side to have a completed roughed in piece. Same with the tip sections?  (Jimi Genzling)

I've never used a V beveller, but I would think you'd have to make several passes.  I know you do on a straight cutter type.  You're using what is called a "climb cut" with the router, (feeding in the same direction as cutter rotation) so it will try to throw the strip if you don't take a fairly light cut.  (Neil Savage)

I take a couple passes with my Bellinger double cutter rougher/taperer (is that a word?). If it had a bigger than 3/4 horse motor, I might consider a bigger cut.  (Bob Maulucci)

I have a Bellinger V beveler/taperer.  I set the cut to .05 above final dimension for butts and run all(tips and butts) the strips through.  I then heat treat as all strip are equal dimension.  I set the taper up for butts and run everything through, then make one adjustment for tips and run them through a second time.  This gets me close enough that I usually have to make less than 10 passes with a plane on my forms. Never had a strip thrown.  (Dennis Aebersold)

To avoid problems with a climb cut I suggest you make sure your V form is not to short and the hold downs are very firm. Most people that have a problem start off with to light of a hold down pressure and should have started  with the heaviest pressure first. The force of the hold downs should be strong enough you need to actually have a firm grasps and use a moderately heavy pull to get the strip through the machine. The bed length should be at least 15" in length to provide enough friction to hold the strip.  (Adam Vigil)

I built a Bellinger type beveler  and am  not having much luck with it.

I have not seen one in operation, missed it at SRG so I don't know what I am doing wrong. I took photos of the one Olaf had at the SRG and thought a made a real close copy. I started out with the cutters turning so they were cutting from the bottom up Got a few good strips but chewed up more than I like to waste. Shot a couple out like arrows. I have since made better hold downs. Changed the cutting direction to a climbing cut and increased the motor size to 3/4 and 3450 RPM. This is a newly rebuilt motor that a good list member brought to me. Now when I feed the strip, the cutters grab the strip and locks up. I have not had a lot of time to play with it so I would like any info that will set me on the right track.

Am I taking too deep a cut.  How many passes does it take to get a 60 degree strip. My strips are close to 1/4" wide.

What direction should the cutters be turning as the strip is fed into them.

I am feeding from the adjustable height side, I don't see that it matters but I could be wrong  (Tony Spezio)

I had a Bellinger beveller for a coupla years.  It was a fine piece of equipment but I sold it to a list member when I acquired a tapering mill.  I would make a couple of comments.  First, if I remember correctly, the Bellinger machine turned against the direction of feed.  Someone will correct me if I'm wrong about that.

Second, depth of cut should not be a problem.  The Bellinger I had would hog off as much cane as you could push through.  One thing that really helps is "pointing" the ends of the strips you feed into the cutters.  Use your belt sander to make a point on the first 1" or so of the strip, leaving the enamel side flat.  That makes it much easier to start the strips.  Till you get familiar with the machine, I'd recommend 2-3 passes per strip.  Once you get things figured out, one pass per strip should be no problem.

Third, good hold downs are the key.  They must be STOUT, and no more than 1" from the cutters.  In fact on the Bellinger machine, the hold downs could readily be raised into the cutters although that's a very bad idea.

Finally, there must be some  method of keeping the strip centered.  Bellinger uses a fence and spring set-up that works well with a little fiddling.

Of course, Olaf's machine was built by Hal Bacon.  While it's somewhat similar to the Bellinger, they're not the same.  (Harry Boyd)