I am interested in this set up as I am already planning on buying a router table that would attach to my table saw.  I am guessing you had to remove the bearing on the Amana bit so that the cutters would be close enough to overlap and create the apex to the triangle.  Do you have any pictures of your set up?  I would love to have a good visual of what I am shooting for.  (Matt Fuller)

You're correct you need to remove the bearing on the Amana bit the way it is shipped.  I don't have any pictures but here’s hopefully a little better description.

I have made a rougher by modifying my Medved style beveller as below.

I have a square groove milled in the hardwood, this helps to guide the strips initially.  There are two cutouts in the hardwood where the holddown wheels intersect it, and is in effect a flat piece of hardwood in these two areas. This allows the holddown wheels to maintain a firm hold on the strip as the strip is milled smaller and smaller.    Both infeed and outfeed holddown wheels have 60 deg. groves with a flat shoulder, the flat shoulder helps to holddown the strips when making the first pass on a square strip. I don't remove the enamel with the beveller, I have better control of how much enamel is being removed by sanding the enamel off.... then basically running strips thru the beveller.  (Wayne Daley)

I may have missed it, but are you milling on both sides at once like Tom Morgan?  (Doug Easton)

Yes, once the bearing is removed from the middle you are have a right and left cutter that forms a 60 deg angle and cutts both sides  of the strip a once.  (Wayne Daley)

I have used these cutters on the last mill I built. They work very well. Only problem is that they aren't exactly 60 degrees. They are made for routing wood, not for milling bamboo to tight specs.

I sent mine out to a guy that regrinds  cutters, end mills, etc. I had him grind the one side to 62 degrees and the other side to 47 degrees.  I ran the cutters around 15,000      to 20,000. It was the smoothest cutting mill I ever made.

So, if you want them to be fairly accurate for 60 degrees, you may want to get them reground. If you just want to rough them out and don't care if they aren't really 60 degrees, they will work just fine the way they are.

Just my 2 cents from  experience.  (Dave LeClair)