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   Smithwick Binder Plans - Darrol Groth

I don't recall seeing this recently, but before I had access to Chris Bogart's excellent "tuning" article for the Garrison Binder, I found adding 3' lengths of 1/2" EMT (essentially plated steel used for running wires in NY City's anally retentive electrical codes) greatly helped with twists and bends by preventing the section from sweeping wide circles in the air when leaving the binder. You need to use a 3/8" dowel with a wad of tissue and vinegar to flush them with after the wrapping (or you'll soon have metal-enclosed rods of Epon instead of tubes *G*), but that's a small price to pay for the help they provide. (Art Port)

I tried using some old braided nylon line (that I purchased for $6.00 in an antique store) for a binder belt. I also used a Braided loop connector (with the loop cut off) to connect the ends. Kinda like a Chinese finger trap. Now this in itself made a great belt for my binder. I put a small amount of 5 minute epoxy over the braided part to make sure the ends held. But the BIG benefit was (unlike using cotton string for a belt) that the belt was reusable. I used it on two sections and the belt is still flexible. Cotton cord or string hardens and you have to make a new belt for every section. There is some sort of coating on the braided nylon that doesn't allow it to harden. Also the loop connector makes for a knotless belt and a very flexible and smooth transition through the binder. I'm getting ready to bind up another section (of a rod) and it seems like the it's first time I've used it. (just as smooth). (Tony Miller)

After messing with my Garrison binder for months, I have finally figured out a superior method for binding that I would like to share. I do it by hand, but I have my daughter help me. I begin wrapping by hand at the butt, and after about a foot she steps in and rotates the blank for me, and provides most of the "turning power". I also turn the blank, but concentrate on getting even wraps, supporting the rod, and making sure that everything is being bound into place properly.

The beauty of this system is that it seems to eliminate virtually every problem I had in binding. No twisting, the blank comes out straight, no danger of breaking anything, and there is no physical or psychological stress. She has caught on quickly how to adjust the angle of the blank to keep the binding going smoothly. It has become a Saturday morning ritual (Maddie, get down here, we need to glue up some rods!).

I stumbled across this only in extemis. I was binding a tip by hand, and got a serious cramp in my hand. I called her over for help, and it worked so well we decided to try it again. The only drawback to this method is that she will eventually grow up and I will have to make a Milward binder. (Jeff Schaeffer)

Just wanted to give a plug for the Smithwick binder. I originally built a Garrison binder when I was tooling up for the first rod, which worked quite well (followed the Bogart instructions). This second rod is a quad, and the Garrison binder tore up the edges pretty good when I bound the strips after roughing. I had the parts for a Smithwick style binder so I put one together. This is a very easy gadget to build and use, it does not put twists in the blank, and it is easy on the spline edges. I also like the Smithwick Binder because it sits right on top of the work bench, and does not need to be clamped or screwed down for use like the Garrison Binder. I think the G-Binder is going to the bone yard and I'm going to use the S-Binder from now on...(Kyle Druey)

I’ve been fighting my binder since I made it. It's never worked exactly like it should. Tuned it some last week, and it finally made a bit of sense. We're talking about binding 50 some rods with this thing, and saying one or two bad words in the process. Question: I get into problems with the binding cord itself. Where exactly do ya'll attach your binding cord, and WHEN? Before you loop the drive belt over? After? Does the binding cord go better in-between the two guides??? This is driving me nuts! It's a Garrison style binder. Do I need to heave it over the hill, and start over? Rods usually have a sweep to them when they come out of the binder, easily straightened when the glue sets, but I hear people talk about having really nice sections OUT of the binder. Any suggestions? (Jerry Andrews)

Have you read Chris Bogart's essay on tuning the Garrison Binder. If not, do so, it is on his web site. I have used a Garrison binder for 25 years, and I get straight sticks. (Ralph Moon)

I also use the Garrison binder and do get straight sticks however I always get a twist which isn't too hard to correct with heat. What do you suppose causes the twist? (Jack Follweiler)

The likely culprit is too much binding thread tension. It really doesn't take much. The drive belt squeezes the strips and glue. The binding thread simply holds the "sandwich" together. There is no need to squeeze or compress it, just hold it steady. That many turns or thread over that many corners provides plenty of friction to keep everything located. (John Sabina)

I assure you that the lengthwise curve is due to having too much binding thread tension. The twist could also be due to this, coupled with  too  much  weight  on  the  drive  cord. (Martin-Darrell)

Wayne Cattanach's latest book has a sequence of pictures on installing the binding thread and using a Garrison style binder. Assuming that the rod section will move left to right, install the rod and the drive belt. Then pass the binding cord under the drive belt but to the right of the right hand center support. (In use the binding cord rides about at the right hand support bracket.)

As to getting swept sections, are your drive belt weights too heavy? Another possibility is that you are using too much binding thread tension. The drive belt wrap and its weight is what squeezes the triangles together. The binding thread has plenty of friction along the rod and needs only enough tension to keep things orderly.

You might also consider adding some additional rod rests 16 to 24 inches either side of center. These will provide better support at the beginning and at the end of the rod shuttling process. Just watch that the lead end doesn't catch the extra trailing bracket. (John Sabina)

I was working on a motorized binder a few days ago, and I decided that I wanted a pedal switch so I could have both hands free while binding. A trip to Menards (can't afford to save much more BIG money)  uncovered  no  pedal  switch,  but  did  reveal  a clicker-controlled remote switch for ~$13. I've seen these before in catalogs, but always for considerably more money. The clicker will work from inside a plastic baggie, so I won't smear glue all over it, and I expect it will be as good as the pedal might have been. The gizmo is also available in several different "channels." (Grayson Davis)

You might want to consider checking out a sewing machine store, and taking a look at one of their foot operated sewing machine switches. Sometimes you can pick up one of those relatively inexpensively. (Mark Wendt)

I picked up an ancient sewing machine with motor, foot switch and tensioner for about $20 at goodwill. (Bill Hoy)

Use the foot pedal from an old sewing machine. Head out to your local junk shop or there will be a sewing machine repair close by probably. (Timothy Troester)

Micro-Mark sells a foot control for $29.95, 110 VAC, 1.2 amps maximum. Item #82412 (Martin-Darrell)

I don't know if you want speed control, but I picked up an on/off foot pedal (really just an extension cord with a foot pedal) from the local Rockler store. I am using it to start and stop the drive belt motor on my mill. It works just fine, and it was around $15 (maybe a bit more). I also have a rod dryer that does not have a switch, and I have been using it with that as well. It would be nice for router tables or other power tools. Woodworkers Supply has them in their catalog,  product #108-815 for on/off and #908-190 for a momentary switch that turns off when you release the foot. Probably many others have them as well. (Bob Maulucci)

I have a couple of questions regarding building a binder. I've located some pulleys at the hardware store with ~ 1/4" channel in them, is this too wide or doesn't it matter? What should I use for a belt? (Mark Pohl)

You can use either a round leather, or round urethane drive belt. The 1/4" wide groove shouldn't be a problem, and you can get the belting in 1/4", too. (Martin-Darrell)

I used something similar, rollers from a patio door - got them at Lowes, brass with bushings about 1/4 inch groove.  I built my binder ALA Garrison design, but have modified it per a suggestion on the list. Make a second main drive pulley and stack them together. Wind one pulley full of 50# braided nylon masons twine - I anchored the twine by drilling a small hole for a screw, sticking the end of the drive belt/string in the hole and screwing the screw in. Do the same think with the end of the belt on the empty drive pulley. Crank the pulleys backwards to rewind all of the belt onto the other pulley. Thread the belt through your pulleys and around a 1/4 test dowel, hang your weight on the belt and away you go. The benefit is NO slipping of the belt, and NO bump as the splice or knot in the belt traverses the rod. I use Polyurethane glue and run the belt back and forth through a cloth dampened with paint thinner after glue up. Use the appropriate solvent for your glue for cleanup. (Kurt Clement)

I've been giving some thought to the 2-string idea myself and am trying to come up with a way to use a Smithwick binder with an inner wheel that would counter rotate inside the larger wheel. Any ideas? Would this require gearing of some kind? (Bill Walters)

See Chris Lucker's improved Milward Binder in THE BEST OF THE PLANING FORM. Great design. (Bob Maulucci)

That's an interesting idea, but wouldn't that be just the same as a Milward binder?

I like the Smithwick binder but the only minor difficulty so far is if you want to reverse the wrap. To do this you must feed the rod in the opposite direction. Normally, I pull the rod away from the tube as I warp, giving me one half of a crisscross style wrap. To get the other side of the crossed wrap you feed the rod in to the tube and pull from the other end. The problem this creates for me is that the thread gets pulled inside the tube and sometimes breaks. I've polished the edge of the tube but it has not helped much. I'm thinking of putting some type of fitting on the front of the tube, maybe half of a copper sweat union fitting, so that the thread has a larger surface to run over. If you have any ideas on how to prevent thread breaking while wrapping in to the tube I would be interested in hearing you ideas. (Kyle Druey)

Why must you reverse the direction of feed for the cross-wrap? Can't you simply crank the wheel clockwise for the first wrap and counterclockwise for the reverse wrap - pulling the section outward in each case?

Is there something about the construction of your unit that prevents this? I don't see the problem, 'cause mine is AC/DC. (Bill Harms)

Do I feel stupid, DOH! just crank in the opposite direction for the second wrap! My unit is constructed properly, but even though I live in CA, it sure ain't ac/dc.  (Kyle Druey)

That would be essentially the Winston Mill design. Look at my plans for a dual action binder that appeared in the March/April 1994 Planing Form and I guess you can find it in the Best of the Planing Form too. I got around the gear/differential issue the same way that Bob Milward did. (Chris Lucker)

I am interested in your opinions on four string binders. Better than Garrison Binder? Don’t bother? Are they too hard to use? All opinions and advice would be greatly appreciated.  (Robert Cristant)

Make a Smithwick binder - low tech, low cost, high efficiency. (Carsten Jorgensen)

I put a motor from a garage sale sewing machine on my Smithwick binder. The on/off and speed is controlled with a foot pedal thus allows me to have both hands free for holding the section while binding. I took the tensioner from the sewing machine as well. The total cost of the binder was less than $20, a bit of copper tubing, a pulley, and the sewing machine. (Bill Lamberson)

I noticed that Harry Boyd's how-to article on rodbuilding has a nice picture of a hybrid Smithwick/four string binder. It uses a Smithwick drive system to run a the two binder wheels. Eliminates the need for a drive belt. I've been meaning to ask him about it. (Bill Hoy)

Well, I can't imagine what your secret is, but when I wrap quads with my Garrison-type binder, I find the corners "banging" against my cradle-guides. This was especially bad with the butt sections and their larger flats. When I adjusted the weight on the drive-string tightly enough to bring the four strips together, the corners of the section would scrape dangerously on the cradles. And  when  I  adjusted  lightly  enough to minimize the bump-bump-bumping, the strips showed glue lines. So the Smithwick binder was the answer for me -- it's worry-free and my sections come out perfectly. (Bill Harms)

I had Dutch rodmaker Marty Maas drop in to see me over the summer and, as usual , we got around to discussing the difficulties of binding rods. Marty explained to me the type of binder he was using. It was based on a design he had been given by a old timer Dutch rodmaker. The simplicity of it appealed to me and Marty sent me some drawings on his return to Holland.

I tried it last weekend on a rod I was making up and obtained a straight blank with very little twist. I thought it may be of interest to a few of you so have set out the details below.

It is so simple it is almost a little difficult to explain. I will endeavor to attach Marty's diagram but as my son's are not here to help their poor old Dad on the computer blame me if it does not come through. ( Those who attend the Southern Hemisphere gathering in March next year will be able to see this binder in action. )

The principal of the binder is very simple, and the materials cost about $10. You also need a variable speed drill with a reverse direction knob. You need a section of hard plastic tube (Metal such as aluminum would also do but it may be more expensive), about 1/2 inch in diameter, and a length of 3" by 2" timber ( or similar) about 4'8" long.

The plastic tube I used is the ducting used for house wiring but I saw a similar hot water pipe tubing. You also need some hooks to hold the tube onto the wood. I just used half a dozen "cup hooks" which were bolted into the timber and the end of the cup hack sawed off. The concept is that you need to hold the tube onto the timber for stability but have one side of the tube unobstructed. In hindsight it may be easiest just to epoxy it on to the timber.

The reason for having one side of the tube unobstructed is that you need to cut a slit in the tube the length of the tube. I used a thick circular disk on a Diemal tool to cut this groove but a small saw at a low angle would do the job or a saw bench. The slit needs to be sanded back a little to give a round , non thread cutting edge to the slit. The thickness of the slit needs to be about .020 to .035 , enough to take the binding thread. The tube is mounted so that there is about 4" of timber overhang at each end of the tube.

Binding is then easy. The freshly glued blank, held with a few cord ties or masking tape, is put into the tube with an inch or so protruding. Cover the protruding end (thicker end of the blank) with some clear film and attach the chuck of the drill to it. Tie the binding thread to the blank in front of the chuck and then have a friend (SWMBO can help also) turn the drill on at slow speed after you lead the thread into the slit. I had the thread on a fly tying bobbin and just used my hand for tension but I am sure there is a better arrangement that can be made. While the rod is turning in the tube the thread is lead along the length of the tube , in the slit. When the end is reached , and this does require a little coordination (yelling) with the drill operator to move the rod section back so that the overhang of the rod length is bound and then poked out the end to be tied off.

Then back to the chuck end and tie the thread again, reverse the drill direction , and do a second binding run up the tube, this takes out most of the twist, then tie off again.

Then run the drill at high speed in one direction for 10 seconds, reverse the direction , and run at high speed in the opposite direction for 10 seconds.

The rod section came out straight and with very little twist.

This binder may not be ideal for very light tips, but I was doing a .070 tip and it was OK. It may be easier to have a separate tube for each rod length but they only take about a hour to build (less if you have a saw bench to cut the slit and epoxy the tube onto the wooden support) so that is not a hassle.

The concept is very simple and obvious and considerably simpler as a first binder then binders such as a Garrison.

I have checked my effort at scanning and the pic does not show up too well on the screen, but prints fine for those who may be interested. (Ian Kearney)

This method, with an illustration, credited to be invented and developed by a Mr. Piet Veugelers can be seen in the small, 1997, self published  book "Splitcanerods  For Fly-Fishing" by H.S.  Schooten,   Heerlen,  The  Netherlands.   Check COCH-Y-BONDDU BOOKS, they still had a copy or two for sale. (Gary Heidt)

I use a binder made from wood, a 6" furnace pulley, bits and pieces, bolts, etc.  Made this about 25 years ago from the plan in A. J. McClane's Fishing Encyclopedia. Only cost was the pulley which I bought at the hardware store. Each time I see one of the beautiful binders that others have made, I swear that I'll make one too. But then I have the latest set of strips to glue, and I use the old one again. (Ted Knott)

I have a Garrison binder I am thinking about building a Milward. I have heard that it is difficult to keep the binding string tension equal with the Milward. Would any of you using a Milward binder consider going back to a Garrison. (Mark Dyba)

I did. I have several 4 strings and went back to the Garrison style when receiving Jeff Wagner’s new design. It does a great job and is much easier to use. Works fine for quads. (Bob Maulucci)

Make a Smithwick binder because

A. it is easy to build
B. it is cheap to build
C. it works like a charm

did try a Garrison binder - it never even gets close to the Smithwick binder. (Carsten Jorgensen)

Or for that matter, would any of you who have a Garrison-style binder consider going back to binding by hand?

A young bloke whom I helped a bit in the early stages of rod building, and who was a bit of a "gear freak", took pity on me in my primitive existence and built me a Garrison binder as a gift. He did a great job on it, and after a couple of rods, I put it away carefully and went back to hand binding.

I put a big G-clamp on my bench and use it to hold a sandwich of two pieces of wood and two pieces of felt; between these I run my binding thread. I can vary the tension at will, even when the gloves are all crappy with glue, and any mess at all is easy to clean off later. I can easily put on enough tension to break the thread should I be so bloody stupid as to want that much, or I can run it through with hardly any tension at all. If the string breaks, the string breaks; I just tie a knot in it and go ahead. Twist is a sheep I never shore.

I thought that using the binder, with all the potential permutations and combinations of settings, was a real ant sandwich, and I was glad to return to the simple life. (Peter McKean)

I just wanted to report a minor tweak that I made to my Smithwick binder that might help some of you. I think most of us made our binder from 1/2" copper pipe, which works well most of the time. The problems I had is that the 1/2" wouldn't allow me to use the MD heat treating forms or some swelled butts. I changed out the 1/2" for 1" copper pipe and it solved the problem. I couldn’t find a 1" bore belt pulley that was satisfactory so I took the 5/8" bore pulley I was using and bored it out to the needed 1.125". Just something to consider for some of you who might be making a Smithwick binder in the future.

I was thinking about motorizing the binder, anyone done this and can report back with motor specs that worked? (Kyle Druey)

I have motorized the binder. I used an old sewing machine motor. The pulley on the motor is about 1/4" in diameter. I put a sleeve of vinyl tubing over it and let it rub on the rim of the 6" pulley on which the thread is mounted. The other drive pulley is dispensed with entirely. I run the rods through one direction, then run them back through the other direction to equalize twist. The foot pedal for the sewing machine muter allows foot control of on/off and speed with both hands free for handling the sections. (Bill Lamberson)

Several years ago after throwing up my hands in despair with a 4 string binder I built. I decided to try something different. I cut a 3/4 inch PVC pipe in half and smoothed the edges. I mounted three 6-8 inch pieces on little pieces of 2x4's so the PVC is raised 3 1/2 inches above the base. The center PVC has a small hole drilled in the middle so that the thread can go through. I put a tensioner just below the hole. The other two pieces of PVC are put on each end of the center piece with enough room for your hands. It sounds a lot more complicated than it is.  You can now either hand bind and/or twist the rod while it is the PVC cradle. With the hole in the middle there is support on both sides. I have had very little problems with twisting. Clean up has never been a problem, I never have. If I ever decide it is necessary there is plenty of pvc left. I have no idea whether it is better or easier than a Garrison binder but this one has worked well for me. (David Ray)

I just finished building a binder. Its a variation of the Tom Smithwick two pulley Binder. My question is; What material is best to use as a drive Belt. I used some nylon cord and it didn't work too bad, but I could see it slipped a couple of times. Thanks to Tom Smithwick for the Idea!!!! (Bill Tagye)

I use 80# test Dacron braided fishing line. (Tom Smithwick)

I just finished building a variation of the Smithwick binder. I found an easily replaceable belt at you local fabric store. I bought 1/4 inch elastic cut it to length and sew the ends together, if your belt slips, shorten your belt, and re-sew the ends together. (Denny Dennis)

I use a Cortland running line ( braided) that I attach the ends by inserting each end into the main part, like when you make a loop at the end of your fly line. I then place a large rubber band in the grove of the pulley to stop from slipping.

I have used one now on 4 rods without any problems. (Mike Lajoie)

I use cotton twine from the hardware store. I wind it on an old salt water reel that's attached a board on the floor. The reel has a very smooth drag and so I can adjust the tension. It works great and I don't worry about a knot or running out of twine. (Mark Dyba)

I have been using mason line for several years. Found it to be better than anything else I have used. (Tony Spezio)

As I see more 4 string binders, I'm wanting to build one myself. Would like to find a drive belt that is readily available. (Chad Wigham)

My four string uses 5 mm neoprene O-ring cord, which I buy by the foot at a local bearing supply house. I cut it to length and cement the ends together with an industrial grade super glue. Regular off-the-shelf stuff will work, but be sure to get a fresh tube from a place that sells a lot of it, since the glue has a fairly short shelf life and loses its cure strength after a few weeks. If you'd like, I'd be happy to send you a six foot length to play with.

Depending on the design, I've also seen standard V-belts used. Check out some of the pics on Todd Talsma's 'Contraptions' page to get some ideas. (Tim Preusch)

I use 3/8" diameter braided nylon rope. You can get it by the foot at most hardware stores. I cut it to the length I need and then fuse it together by heating the ends with an open flame until the nylon is melting and then pressed together. It works well and is a lot stronger than I ever expected. It only took one practice run to get the technique down. Still using the first one I made 3 years ago. It's cheap, easy to find and quick to make. (Brian Smith)

McMaster-Carr has a web site that has everything you can imagine, including several styles of round belts that you trim to length and fuse together. (Chris Lucker)

What type of adhesive do you all use to attach a rubber band to the drive wheel on your binders? Getting just a smidge frustrated with the rubber band slipping off the drive wheel.

On another note, has anyone used anything other than rubber bands to help get traction on the drive belt? (Todd Talsma)

Try barge cement. (Timothy Troester)

I bought a roll of 3M two sided tape. It has a foam core and works great. It comes in 1" width so you can slice it in half and a little goes a long way. I have been able to get a couple of glue-ups without a problem. Once dust gets on it it’s time to replace, pull it off and reapply an new strip. Works for me. My idler wheels and the drive wheel I fabricated out of Delrin so I need something to grip the drive belt. (Michael Hoffman)

I had the same problem (especially using slimy Epon) - so I installed a two pulley system on my Garrison style binder. A supply wheel and a take-up reel for the drive belt. No slipping and no knots. (David Van Burgel)

Have you tried painting it with Pliobond or running a wide bead of caulk (no silicone!) on the pulley. A rubber band from the broccoli works great for me. (Brian Creek)

I tried many things for the same problem and I find that a cross piece of a bicycle camera (inner tube) is the best. (Marcelo Calviello)

Late coming in here, but try wrapping the drive cord around the drive wheel twice. Works for me. (Harry Boyd)

I double wrap my drive string too, but have had instances when the cord catches on itself on the drive wheel. Don't know if it is the shape of the "groove" of the wheel or whether it is caused by the tackiness of the excess glue on the drive string. 

Do you have similar problems? (Tim Wilhelm)

I had this same problem again and again till I made a small modification.

I added a small "out guide" roller that guides the belt off the crank pulley, moved out about 1/4" from the base so that the "out drive" belt is separated from the "in drive" belt. The modifications are in a past issue of Power Fibers. I never get any hang-ups or slippage . Now that Sowbug is over, I will have time to get some shots of this. Will be glad to send them to who may want them. (Tony Spezio)

I took the crank handle off my binder drive pulley many years ago. My drive pulley is a 4 1/2" diameter V groove pulley. I pinch the drive belt/cord into opposite sides of the V with my thumb and fingers and then turn, pinch and turn, pinch and turn, etc. until the section is bound. (Ted Knott)

No kidding, I just bind one rod with resorcinol and leave a little in there and it won't slip. *G* (Dewey Hildebrand)

I wrapped the groove in the wheel with cotton string to make a smooth soft pad, then I coated the pad with clear silicone caulking. It never slips (Ralph Moon)

I rebuilt my binder this past fall after seeing Tom Smithwick's newest ideas on binder construction in the Catskills. I used his principles, and after getting a couple of bugs worked out, it is running worlds better than my Garrison style, and I can even think of a couple of things that will still help. Because of the wheel to wheel drive belt, there is no issue of the belt slipping. I am truly impressed with Tom's design. (Carl DiNardo)

Lay a bead of clear silicone caulking in the drive wheel, smoothed out with your finger. Also try using 30 pound fly line backing for a drive belt. Knot it with an Albright knot and you will never know its there. (Dave Kenney)

I have a Garrison-type binder modeled after Digger DeGere's version but with a few modifications. There is a single drive pulley using a continuous belt. I am considering altering it so I can use a pulley like the one Golden Witch sells. That has a drive pulley made from some black plastic that has both supply and take-up sections. I looked through the MSC catalog for plastics that might be appropriate and was overwhelmed (as usual) by the selections. Does anyone know what the material is that is being used in the double reel? (Barry Mayer)

I have one of the Bellinger/Golden Witch binders and it has, i think, hard black Polyester wheels. I’ve found that on mine it turns one direction, clockwise, okay, but not counter as well. I just use it in that direction, then rewind and reset the blank [running left to right feed both times]. If you want I could turn you one made of aluminum. I'd just need your hole/bolt size & I'd use 3" diameter stock and make it the same width as the Bellinger. I also cut a slot for the string, like on a thread spool for quick change of drive string. You probable won't find an after market plastic one like the Bellinger as they are turned special for their binder. I've looked for poly stock too and haven't found the hard stuff at reasonable prices. [McMaster-Carr] (Chad Wigham)

I made mine out of plywood disks with aluminum flanges. Seems to work OK. (Neil Savage)

I modified my Garrison style binder by using two garage door spring pulleys sandwiched together. Seems to do the job. (David Van Burgel)

I've got a tip or you that you should try. This assumes that you are feeding the blank from left to right, and have a long enough belt to make 2 passes without rewinding. I use a long enough belt to bind an entire rod without rewinding.

For the first pass, lay the butt end of a rod section on the cradle and cross the binder belt over the blank from front to back. Put one loop of the belt over the blank, tie on the binder thread, and then throw the second loop of the belt over the blank. Turn the crank to wind the first wrap onto the blank, but when you reach the end of the blank, stop as the first loop of the belt slips off the end of the blank. You will still have one loop of the belt over the blank, and the thread behind the belt. Now pick up the end of the blank that you started with and swing that around to your left so the direction of the blank is reversed. Keep the single loop of the belt over the end of the blank in the cradle while you perform this maneuver, and it will keep tension on the binding thread. When you are done, you will have the direction of the rod section reversed, the belt crossing from the rear to the front and the binder thread in front of the belt. Now you just throw a second loop of the belt over the blank in front of the binding thread and you are ready to wind the second wrap in the opposite direction (again feeding from left to right).

Give it a try with a dowel instead of a rod section if that's not clear.

I started out binding by hand and always started at one end and wrapped a section down and back. When I built a binder, I'd never seen anybody use one, and I didn't realize that some people tied off the thread at both ends. I just kept winding the thread like I always had, and have found it much simpler. I've done this on tip sections where the tip was 0.050". I start at the butt end of a section and have never had any trouble rotating the section around even with a tip that fine under the belt. (Robert Kope)

I made that pulley using 3/4" recycled UHMW plastic sandwiched between 1/8" acrylic discs to form the sides and middle section. I used the same stuff to make the in and out feed beds for the binder. My theory was that the super slick plastic would be easier to clean than other less expensive options. I think I paid about $30 for a 10' x 4" piece of the UHMW at a local plastics supplier. Probably should have used something less expensive, but it sure is easy to clean up. (David Van Burgel)

Woodcraft, who is outrageously expensive most of the time, has a UHMW pieces grab bag that may be the ticket. It was pretty cheap, if my feeble memory serves. (Brian Creek)

I believe that the Bellinger binder has wheels made from black Delrin. That gets pretty pricey in the 3" or 4" size. I made the small pulleys on my binder from 1" Delrin rod, but made the large double drive wheel from 2" thick maple, but you can use nearly anything. I have not found cleaning to be an issue since I change the belt each time I glue up a rod. (Robert Kope)

Here's an easy solution. I used two Cortland Micron spools glued back to back and covered each end with a brass disk. Works great. (David Rinker)

I had to glue up 5 2/2 rod blanks last night. Gluing 15 long sections with an old Garrison style binder is not exactly my idea of a fun night, especially at 3:30 in the morning. I know some of you are really into new gadgets and state of the art tools, so I was hoping to get some advice on choosing a new type of binder.

Let me start by telling you what I like about my binder

1. It's super fast & easy to setup - I wind on some new drive cord and start binding.

2. It's hand operated - I have a small trust issue with power tools (I have had more than one sneak over to a buddy's shop behind my back to play for a few weeks at a time)

3. It's super simple to operate - I'm not all that smart, and besides, I often put in 80 plus hours a week in the shop and I don't need a complicated binder getting on my nerves and causing me to curse in the wee hours of the morning.

4. It's super easy to cleanup - nuff said

Things I dislike about my binder:

1. I have to rewind the drive cord after each section. I tried a continuous belt system but I didn't like it. Splicing belts takes too long and is fairly difficult with my hands shaking from those 24 cups of high octane coffee (I got used to drinking this potent stuff in the Navy, I just can't find a good substitute for JP-5 fumes, tried Acetone, got real sick)

2. I have to be real careful when binding tip sections on light rods like 1 & 2 weights. I usually end up having to support the tip section with my fingers as it passes through the drive belt. Lately I just started planing 1 & 2 wt. tip strips with 4 extra inches so when the binder breaks the tip of the blank it's no big deal!

3. I guess the only other big complaint I have about my binder is that I can't seem to ever get Hoppe or anyone for that matter to come over and glue up all my rods so that I don't have to!

Based on these facts, does anyone have a miracle binder that will satisfy all my deepest & darkest gluing desires? (Jeff Fultz)

I have a Garrison type binder I built some years ago. Some I have seen have a divided spool that supplies the drive belt on one side and winds it up on the other. I would like to make one and would like some advice about what material would be suitable. It should be readily machined, relatively inexpensive and available and clean up easily after gluing. I have thought about Delrin and UHMW but don't really know how they fit the criteria. (Barry Mayer)

I scraped my Garrison binder and made another out of UHMW as you suggest with a supply and take-up spools. Works great and is easy to clean up. Used mason line for a driver belt. None of the adhesives we use will stick to it. All of the screws are stainless.

The turn around is set so the belt is aligned to the center of the supply and take-up reels. Drilled a hole, centered front to back, through top surface of the supply & take up reels to thread the drive belt. All that is needed is a big knot so the drive belt won't go back through the hole. This setup causes the belt to level wind on the reels. All of the pulleys are screen door parts.

The handle is nothing more than drilled out piece of plastic with a 1/4x20 through it.

I'm in the process of making another change. You will notice two silicone bronze pins laying on the tray to the left of the tensioner. (make an extra) I'm going to cut out the center of the tray, getting rid of the captured rotating single pin, and install one of the pins so that it's top edge is aligned with the bottom of the tray. This pin will not rotate like the present one and threads into the back plate. This will make it easier to thread the binding cord and wrap the driver belt around a strip. The single pin works well in the present setup but being captured is a pain to wrap the drive belt and thread the binding cord.

The weights in the pictures are 16 oz, 8 oz & 5 oz sinkers with hook made from a coat hanger. Most of the time the 8 oz is all that is needed. (See pictures here) (Don Schneider)

My binder worked like a charm for the first few blanks. Now my binder cord slips and I have to coax it along by hand. I'm using chalk line which is easy to make a belt out of, but also slick as snot. Any suggestions for binder cord material?

Oh, and the drive wheel I used on my binder was a metal garage door pulley. It is two piece and has a gap which is filled with old glue and slick as crap as well. Any suggestions for a drive wheel? Any problem with using the one piece poly garage door wheels? (Lee Orr)

For a belt I use 30 LB Dacron fishing line. Just tie a square knot in it. A wide rubber band that fits in the groove of the pulley adds some extra traction for the belt. 

However, I would recommend buying a spool of 20 or 30 LB Dacron fishing line and rigging up a holder opposite the pulley belt and running a continuous belt. I just use a piece of wood with a long bolt through it and a wing nut to add tension to the spool. Clamp the wood piece to the bench or the binder frame.

Instead of the weight for tension on the drive belt, drill a 1/4 inch hole in the binder frame insert a 1/4 inch bolt from the back, place two cork rings on the bolt, add a washer and wing nut. Run the belt through the two cork rings and add tension by tightening the wing nuts. The continuous belt is nicer because it doesn't keep picking up glue which seems to either make the belt stick or slip. (Tom Mohr)

Wrap a rubber band into the groove of your drive wheel for friction. (Mike Shay)

I use chalk line with a square knot. I used to splice the chalk line but found it not necessary. Slip a wide rubber band in the pulley groove. That should do it. There are other ways but this works for me. (Tony Spezio)

Try wrapping some rubber bands around your drive wheel. (Mark Wendt)

For what it is worth, I took the drive wheel and other wheels off my binder and use direct pull cord of ice fishing line through tensioners. I got tired of the slipping and other problems I experienced with the original EG design. ---I can share a photo if you like. It is simple and cheap to build and works every time. (Ron Revelle)

Make a fat rubber band out of a piece of bicycle tube and stretch it on to the drive wheel. Be sure to clean it before the glue dries and it will keep its traction. You can also try making your drive cord longer and take two turns around the drive wheel. (Steve Weiss)

When I didn't do it Degere style, I coated my binder cord with two coats of Pliobond. This, coupled with what the good doctor mentions, kept things tight and happy and slip-free. (Joe West)

A few thoughts:

1) look for cotton chalk line, not nylon. Not near as slippery. Mine is braided polyethylene and that seems to work also, but I'm using item #3.

2) make an extra wrap around the pulley

3) add an extra pulley in front or behind of the present drive pulley and use a long cord ala the one GW sells, clean the cord after each section and replace it often. (Neil Savage)

Do 4 string binders really, substantially, (note emphasis) reduce twist? What about endless drive belts on single string binders? (Brian Creek)

I am not sure about the 4 string, me thinks the extra effort/expense to make/buy one isn’t worth it.

I think the endless drive Garrison style is wonderful... I am a convert to this type. I have found that I can use just about any type of string for the drive belt so long as it is strong enough (I mean go to the dollar store and buy spools of cotton string).

The other tip that has been great is to use "button thread" for the binding string... thanks to Channer for that one! (Kyle Druey)

If the tension on the 4 string is set even on the 4 spools it does eliminate the twist. (Tony Spezio)

You'd really have to go some to beat Tom Smithwick's newest binder! Does a heckuva job! And simple as Simon!

See: Tom Smithwick's New Binder

I made a couple of modifications for my convenience, but it's a work of genius as it stands. (Art Port)

There are no directions for this. How does it work, how do you build it? (Brian Creek)

The main change I made was realigning the wheels so I didn't have to turn them in opposing directions. Darn near drove me crazy! 8^)

As for weight, I use a 1 lb wt hung from a string about 10" out from the point of friction and switch it from side to side (I don't weight both sides) as I use the forward/backward action. That's for the tips; I move it about 2" farther out for the butts. That answers the question of running right and left, I guess. I run it through from left to right and then I fool with it only enough to tie a couple of half-hitches before binding the other way. And no, I don't increase the tension for the second pass. I DO have a Wagner/Singer type thread tensioner for the binding thread.

I also made my infeed/outfeed trays about 4' long each (mine Definitely ain't portable without dismembering!) so they support the sections ALL the way out from the mechanism. I don't know if I routed my troughs too shallow or if Tom has a similar problem, but I had to drill holes along the sides of the troughs and drop 8p finishing nails into them as a fence so the gluey-gooey rod didn't try to climb out of the trays and flip on the bench or the floor. The drag of the glue seems to be the most likely source of any twist you might get. When I used it last year in front of others Ron Barch and John Zimny both vowed they'd never seen a rod so straight right out of any binder before. And Ron was afraid to let me use it at first for the Catskill school. I suggested we use it for the heat-treating and if he didn't like it, we could use his for the actual glueup. Well, he was MORE than surprised and almost effusive about its results!

Oh, also Tom's knotting area was TOO small for my fingers (and I have a very small hand) so I set up a slightly different system for that. It opens and shuts as needed.

I don't know what anyone's hookup is so I won't send pix without your okaying it, but if you can handle big files without choking, lemme know and I'll forward some stuff. Maybe I'll have to send the pix to Todd's site. (Art Port)

There are more photos here.

The machine continues to be very successful. I just glued up an ultra light 2 weight with Epon, which is really slick stuff. One of the sections needed a brief roll on the bench top, the other was so straight I just hung it with no tweaking. The mechanism with the drag levers is simple and successful, and eliminates a lot of the extraneous junk on the Garrison machine. I believe that the success of the machine, however, is due to the replacement of the traditional cradle, which was actually an afterthought on my part. The cradle design predates Garrison, and I have concluded that it is responsible for much of the twist and kinking, and a lot of drag. The first thing most users notice about the new machine is how smoothly the sections pass through. I think I prefer the revolving pin "cradle" to the strip steel version, but either is fine. I only run the machine left to right, rewinding the cord between sections. I use no weight on the right lever. I string the binding cord over the cradle with some slack. The section is then laid in the channel with its end on the cradle. The cord lays over the section, and the thread is knotted on. Then the cord is wrapped over the section another turn. In this way, the knot is between the two wraps of the cord, exactly the way a Garrison machine would be rigged up. Slack is removed from the cord and thread, and the section cranked through. What you will notice is that the cradle supports the section as it is bound, and you can even run a fine tip right to the end without bending it in any way. None of the dimensions of the machine are critical, and neither are the materials. The only area to watch is to make sure that the top of whatever you use as a cradle is exactly level with the bottom of the routed channel. In this way, the section is neither pushed up or pulled down as it is bound. (Tom Smithwick)

Really nice! I have a couple of questions.

How does the binder cord work and what do you use? 

Have you tried springs on the axles with washers and nuts to provide tension, as on a Foley food mill (yep, we're making jelly here in the heartland!)?

How do you determine tension? Is it just trial and error with a dowel rod?

Thanks once again for your innovation and your willingness to share your work with the masses!  (Brian Creek)

I tried your roller, and it was a disaster. Couldn't make the darn thing turn. seemed like a massive improvement in principle, but so much for theory (at least in my case). I went back to the brass plate and am very happy with it ever since. I had the roller on bronze sleeve bearings and everything!

About the level of the cradle; I found that it was even better if it was one drive belt's thickness below the channel's level. This was more important when I was using butcher's twine than now. The belting actually seemed to lift the section above the channel and then it had to drop down again. I guess that probably depends on how thick your belting is. I'm currently using (I think) Dacron fishing line, about 50 LB test. I'm inferring here that you also run your sections through butt first. I've had fine results using my tip first method, so maybe it doesn't matter a hoot which way you go!

As for your two wt, I'll see your ante and raise you one. I had fine results with a one wt (also with Epon)! *BSEG* (Art Port)

Couldn't make the darn thing turn.

That may be a function of the super slick Epon not generating enough friction to turn it. Mine does not turn much either, but that may change with the next rod, which is going to be glued with resorcinol. I think the pin may generate less friction than the strip steel, even if it does not turn, but as I said, I can't prove that. Did the pin cause you any problem, or just not spin as it was supposed to? (Tom Smithwick)

The flats hung up on it! I didn't mean the roller didn't turn, I meant the ROD didn't turn. All the same belting and thread setup as usual. Thank goodness I was doing the heat-treating bind. If I'd had glue on the thing and had to disassemble the whole guide, I'd have been spitting nails!

I thought it'd be a real improvement as there's no way the belting can ride on it and therefore you needn't worry about that bump in the road. Alas, 'twasn't to be! (Art Port)

Wow - I have not had that problem, but I am using a lot less weight than you. Maybe that's it. Was the pin 1/4" diameter? Something akin to 80# Dacron for the drive belt? I have not had the opportunity to try a larger diameter pin, say .312 or .375, but maybe that would help if you use heavier weight. My weight is 1/2 pound, and I hang it roughly the same distance from the fulcrum as the contact point, ie, 1/1 leverage. That seems to give me enough tension for a tight bind. (Tom Smithwick)

Yep, 1/4" shaft. I should think that more weight would make the twine grab better ad thus drive the section better. Maybe you're right. Remember that I start out with the butt of the section. The flats are wider there by far. Maybe if the thin end goes first the wrapped thread and initial turning allows for easier revolution when the thick end gets to the "business area". (Art Port)

I use L-100, do you guys see any problem cleaning the binding belt with a sponge and water on the return trip to the left wheel? I don't want to have the belt become too slippery or too crusty to use. (Brian Creek)

I get quite a few passes with the belt before it gets too sticky/stiff to be usable. Of course I don't know whether "L-100" is more like #2 crude or like Crazy Glue than Epon. *G*

I do my rods in 2-batches and I've always been able to do the 6 sections w/o a problem. Sometimes it'll soften enough after soaking in water and vinegar that I can get another pair, another day, out of it. (Art Port)

It's URAC made by Borden. (Brian Creek)

I have been using The "Original" Smithwick binder since it was released and a fine piece of equipment it is. It has one drawback, however: A helper is, IMHO, needed in order to bind. Can’t say the family is overly happy to fill in here.

I presume the "New" binder is a one man show - could someone confirm/deny?

Is the new binder a realistic improvement over the "old" one, and if so, how?

Your opinions are, as usual, welcomed. (Carsten Jorgensen)

The goal of this design was the same as the goal for the original "no brainer" design. I wanted something that was simple to build, worked reliably, and could be put aside for months and then used with little or no tweaking. An amateurs machine.

The no brainer has the advantages of extreme simplicity, and the ability to bind 5 and 4 strip rods with the same ease of use. I never claimed it was the best binder out there, but if it is constructed is such a way that even thread tension is applied, it does a very acceptable job with little fuss.

The mechanism of the new binder was designed to be as utterly simple as a string binder could be. The mechanism may look crude, but it relies on gravity, which is pretty reliable and also free, the last time I checked. The machine has exceed my expectations, producing results as good as any I have personally seen. I think it will do a better job on hex rods than the original, it may work on pentas, but is dubious for quads.

I'm still undecided on the efficiency of the strip steel cradle Vs the pin, and was surprised to hear of Art's difficulty with the pin yesterday. I would welcome feedback from anyone else. If I have not mentioned it before, the strip steel cradle should have well rounded edges.

In any case Carsten, it is a one person design. If you are only making hex rods, you may want to consider it. BTW, if you install infeed and outfeed supports for the blank, you should be able to operate the no brainer single handed.  (Tom Smithwick)

I built a Milward style (admitted rip-off from a Dawn Holbrook binder) 4 spool binder a few years ago and am modifying it with purchased thread tensioner devices (I built my own thread tensioner devices and have not been happy with their performance). I am curious as to what the lbs tension on each tensioner should set it at. I believe that Ray Gould told me 1 lb, though that was 10 years ago at least and I forget for sure, and in fact could be wrong on that.)

Also I was thinking that the best way to set the tension would be off of the spool as opposed to putting tension on the actual thread. The problem with setting tension on the thread is that it assumes the diameter of the thread is constant. I just don't know if this is a fact.

Next question is maybe I'm being too anal on this. I do know that even pressure of some kind is critical. This is a learned experienced. (Martin Jensen)

I think that 1 lb is about right. You get a lot more wraps of thread with a 4-string binder than with a Garrison style binder.

I run a light rod tip thru my binder (doesn't have to be cane), and its easy to see if the tip wants to roll (2 strings on a wheel tighter than the other wheel), or flop (1 string tighter than the other 3). Once the tip goes thru without rolling or flopping you are set. (Frank Stetzer, Hexrod, Taper Archive, Rodmakers Archive)

You know I built my tensioners but always had trouble finding decent springs for them. I had to take springs that I got and bend them to fit. Never really found what I wanted, you know just the right tension and all. I had a little issue with some severe twist on my last tip section and decided to buy some of those Flex Coat TD2D Thread Tension Devices.  (Martin Jensen)

If it does "roll" or "flop" how do you determine what thread is loose or tight. Do you check all four threads and reset the tension. (Tony Spezio)

Its pretty easy to diagnose if the wheels are spinning slowly. If its just 1 string too tight the rod will be following that 1 string. If its rolling, it will be rolling in the same direction as the wheel with the 2 tight strings. You can just adjust the offending string or strings a little.

Helps a little to have different colored threads. (Frank Stetzer, Hexrod, Taper Archive, Rodmakers Archive)

On the subject of motors, I plan on adding one to my four string binder and operating it with a foot switch and was wondering what rpm would be recommended? (Wayne Kifer)

Jeff Fultz uses a GE 1.4 amp which runs fast at about 180 rpm. All of this is determined by the wheel sizes you use of course. I'm not sure you need that much speed or power. (Ralph Tuttle)

How about using a variable speed control ALA a sewing machine? (Neil Savage)

I made mine using a motor and foot peddle from a sewing machine. Not sure of the rpm, but it will go faster than I want if I put my foot down. Lots of nonworking sewing machines out there, rarely is the motor the problem. (Steve Shelton)

I did this and used a sewing machine speed control so I could adjust the speed as needs. FYI I have since abandoned the speed control as I found it unnecessary. My binder rotates at about 150 RPM and that is a very comfortable speed (IMO). I have no trouble reaching for the switch if I need to turn it off while in the middle of binding (Martin Jensen)

Over thirty years ago I built my first rod and since at that time there was little information re rodbuilding available, I did a lot of improvising. My first binder was was a Crompton as shown in McClanes Encyclopedia. The binder was made from 1/2" plywood and it did work, but I was never completely satisfied because of all of the sources of friction made it hard to use. After The Master's Guide was published, I decided to give the Garrison adaptation a shot. My first effort again worked, but not too well and I soon built another which I have used successfully for over twenty five years. I still had a few problems, but the major problems attributed to Garrison's binder never caused much trouble,. Twist for example has never been a problem for me once I discovered the effects of the counter wind and made the appropriate adjustments. My sections always came out straight except for a slight bend on tips about four inches from the end. I was aware of the cause of that bend, but I couldn't figure out how to eliminate it. It was caused by too much pressure bending the rod between the cradle supports. I almost always had to carefully unwind my drive cord and do the last few inches by hand,

Then Tom Smithwick came up with a revolutionary modification to the Garrison Binder, and I shall be everlastingly grateful to him for it. Instead of using two cradle supports at the binding point, Tom went to one,. If fact he made his one support a free turning point.

I just rebuilt my Garrison Binder utilizing Tom's adaptation. I am literally astounded at the results. Binding has never been easier and never so free from the worry of something going wrong. Even the finest tips go through without any distortion or undue strain. With new (good) pulley wheels and a single non moving binding point I have found the perfect binder. I have always wondered why so many builders bad mouth the Garrison Binder.  I love it. (Ralph Moon)

I'm getting ready to purchase some more tooling, and wanted to get some input on binders. I will be producing quads and hex's. Garrison style binders seem to be the standard, but I am leaning towards Tim Preusch's 4 string binder. Should I have both types? Any input as to positives or negatives of either? (Paul McRoberts)

Check out Jeff Wagner's binder. I got one last March. Now to be truthful, I have not used it for a glueup, only for binding strips for heat treating (a busy summer and fall). Will use it for gluing for the first time this weekend (the first of this winter's rods). But it works way better than any of the three other binders I made over the years, and my hand binding. And Jeff and his wife service what they sell-When I first started out I didn't know how to use some of the equipment I bought from them and they talked me through some techniques and near disasters.

Anyway check it out. Wagnerrods.com (Jeff Schaeffer)

I've owned two different 4 string binders and sold them both after I bought one of Jeff Wagner's binders. I use it for both quads and hexes. It is very reasonable priced and I think it works much better than Garrison style binder. (Bob Williams)

I'm another happy user of Wagner's binder. I find that I like to use it Degere style that is in continuos belt drive with 30 pound backing. Use an old Cortland Rim Fly reel to hold the backing. Best part after glue up just strip off the glued up string off the drive wheel and your ready to go again. Even works with those old cracked PVC lines! (Tim Pembroke)

I finally got a chance to use the Wagner Binder.

This is one fine binder, and it produced the straightest bound sections I have ever achieved in about 25 rods.

Some details - the binder works three ways: as a Garrison style, a hand cranked style with an endless drive belt, and a motor-driven style powered by a cordless drill or screwdriver (comes with an adapter for this use).

When it first arrived, my initial thought was that it was just too simple (Jeff advertises this fact). But I tried it for some triangulated strips for heat treating and it was fine. The true test came tonight when I glued up two 52 inch sections. I used the hand crank because 1) it is fun, and 2) I liked the control (Jeff recommends the motorized version). I also deviated from the setup instructions by making PVC cradles rather than the simple dowel supports Jeff recommends. The thing was smooth as silk. Nice even wraps and no stress on the tip sections. The instructions were clear, and designed to keep you away from nearly all the problems rodmakers experience during binding (twists and bent blanks). Both sections came out absolutely straight even though I had a non-recommended cradle, cranked, and it was my first time binding with the thing, and the blanks were longer than is typical.

There are three things you need to be aware of before use.

1. The binder does not come with any place to attach the spool of Dacron backing that serves as the endless drive belt. I made one, but future versions might consider an accessory that would hold the spool. You can easily rig something, but it would be a cool add-on.

2. If you are cheap, you can save a bunch of Dacron drive belt material by rewinding it back on the spool if you are just heat treating. That is another possible attachment that could be included in future versions (something to hold the Dacron spool in your drill for rewinding). This idea isn't in the directions, but could be.

3. You need to follow the directions that call repeatedly for minimal tension on the drive belt and the binding thread. I used a vertical paper towel holder to hold the binding thread spool and it did not rotate well until I glued some "magic sliders" on the base. Found them at the hardware store - they are a product designed to help furniture slide along the floor (one of those "as seen on TV things"). Had I not done this, I would have had too much tension on the binding thread.

4. The directions suggest that you remove tape from the sections and hold them together with some wraps of fine thread. This can not be overemphasized - Jeff believes that the best binding occurs when there are no stops during rotation. This would defeat the whole design, which is to provide smooth rotation and movement through the process.

So my summary is that there are two minor improvements that could be added to make a great tool even better, but you can make those accessories yourself. And the directions might say "you need to follow the instructions carefully, and here is why". This is only needed for certain people such as myself.

Over the past 6 years I have made 3 binders, and none of them worked half as well as this one. I recommend this binder highly. Simple, elegant, and sturdy. And I forgot to mention that it looks nice.

No financial interest, although Jeff and his wife were especially kind to me during my initial rodmaking cluelessness. And they remain kind during my continued cluelessness. (Jeff Schaeffer)

I'd have to agree with Jeff. This tool is easy to use and ready to go right out of the box. I haven't used the binder to glue up sections, but I've used it for sections that are ready to be heat treated. I have to make some infeed and outfeed supports yet, but once that's accomplished, I'm sure the binder will work even better.  (Todd Talsma)

I found that a Cortland Rim Fly reel, with only one of the pawls engaged, solved the problem of creating minimal tension as well as the ability to rapidly rewind the continuos belt back for reuse when binding sections for heat treating. A C-clamp holds it to the bench for easy removal when not in use. As some of us are spaced challenged. (Tim Pembroke)

So, I am rounding the corner on building my binder. I have one final piece to mill, the cradles. I mocked one up just to make sure everything is functioning properly. With the way it is currently set up, my bindings are applying at exactly 1/8" apart. Is this too tight? Most I have seen look to be spaced further apart.

Now......I am really not set up to be milling parts (Metal, delrin etc) so I am considering myself lucky to have all my body parts are still attached and functioning!! I did however take a lathe chisel twice to the face (Didn't learn with the first fat lip) and while drilling some brass on a bench top drill press the bit caught.......ripped the vise out of my hands....then as it was coming back around, smacked the top of my hand which immediately started to swell and bruise!! I hit the stop button before it got me the second time around!! Bent the vise screw as well!! Needless to say, my metal lathe, drill press and new vise will be shipping in about a week!!! I have never had so much fun getting hurt!!! (Paul McRoberts)

Glad you're enjoying it Paul, there's plenty more to come. If you think paper cuts get sore, wait until you get your first bamboo cuts. They redefined sore for me. (Will Price)

I see Paul is going to be a contender for the coveted Nunley Award. 1/8th inch wraps on your binder is pretty tight but certainly useable. (Mike Shay)

Hi Paul, mine are .5 in from outside edge to outside edge.

Plenty of grip. (Jerry Foster)

Yeah Mike, but don't forget, you set the bar pretty high last year with your hot varnish incident. Now do we hand out permanent awards or is it like the Stanley Cup, where you just get your name engraved on it and only keep possession of it until the next winner is announced. (Will Price)

I have never used Delrin, and I wanted to know how well it would hold up for use in a binder (Using it for the pulleys and the cradles) Also wondered if dried glue is easily cleaned off of this material? Any input? (Paul McRoberts)

I never thought about using it for cradles, but Bellinger uses it for all the pulleys on their binders. I used it for most of the pulleys on mine, but not the drive pulley. I made a double drive pulley like the Bellinger binders have, but made it about 5" in diameter. Delrin gets expensive when you buy it in rod that large. I made my drive pulley out of maple. I don't know how easily that cleans; I've never cleaned it. Nothing sticks to Delrin, so it cleans pretty easily. (Robert Kope)

I made my Bellinger type binder out of UHMW including the in & out cradles, take-up & supply reels. It's not Delrin, it's close but still pricey. If you don't allow the adhesive to cure on it, it's a snap to clean up. If the adhesive does cure on it it stil