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Any sources on heater elements for heat treating ovens?? (Tom Ausfeld) Go to WalMart and buy a 5-dollar hot plate and bend and uncoil the element. The elements are pretty easy to bend. It’ll unwind to about 6 feet. It already has the wiring and temperature control build in. Works great. Using 2 to power my oven. (Paul York) Call Grand Technology at 616-940-3345, they have the strip heaters in a 4 ft length, ideal for a rod oven. The heater is 120 volt and it's a Watlow #S1J54AS1 strip heater. I bought mine 6 years ago for around $65.00 I salvaged a thermostat from an old kitchen oven for nothing, but it did take some footwork to come up with it. (Jim Bureau)
I first connected the reducer to the 5 inch duct with sheet metal screws (bottom). I then put the 3 inch duct inside the 5 inch duct and left about 5 inches sticking out the top and screwed the 3 inch pipe to the inside of the 5 inch duct. I drilled a hole for the thermometer screwed it in place. I took the 3 inch aluminum pipe and scrunched (probably a better word out there) down between the 3 inch and 5 inch pipes. I then scrunched the aluminum pipe around the nozzle of my heat gun. I stuffed aluminum foil and insulation around the pipes to prevent leaking. I then used aluminum tape to dress it up some (I'm sure that the sticky side of the tape will burn off, but it made it look better). I took the remainder of the insulation and covered it will aluminum foil and stuck it up inside the reducer to close off the bottom of the oven. I stood the oven up beside my latter and rested my heat gun on the latter while connecting it to the top of my oven via the scrunched up 3 inch aluminum pipe. It seems to work great. (Darrin Curtis)
I would check some construction sites trash dumpsters or go to any Heating and AC shop and see if they have some that are premade and just taking up space. I use to work in a shop as an installer and I always seen some ducts laying around and I also threw some away. (Dave Henney)
I have a Cattanach style oven that I put a 1/4" X 4" piece of steel on top of the screen. It takes the oven about 45 minutes to reach temp, but it gives a much better more even heat treatment. I also use MD's fixtures. (Scott Grady) Yes, indeed. I built a shelf about two inches above my heating element and lined it with one-inch brick -- leaving about 1/2" space between the brick and the sides all the way down. I'm only assuming that this functions as a heat-sink to stabilize the heat, but as I also installed a fan-driven convection loop at the same time, I can't really say which improvement has done the trick for me. In any case, the brick shelf can't hurt, and it doesn't cost enough even to give it a second thought. (Bill Harms) Yes. I use firebrick. (John Zimny) Nah, I just use a fan in my oven... ;^} (Mark Wendt) Just a thought. If anyone is having trouble convincing SWMBO that a new and larger oven is needed, perhaps a bit of rationale to help the argument would be to mention that a bigger oven with bricks, similar to a French Pastisserie uses, could be used to bake some of that nice crusty French bread, or some baguettes, or...(Claude Freaner) I worked with a maker one time that made a very large oven - to spread the heat more evenly the heating element was buried in sand - I don't know if this is workable in your case or not - remember as well that the time to bring the oven to temperature will be long the more mass you add to the inter of the chamber. (Wayne Cattanach) I was trying to minimize 2 hotspots that plagued the oven from the start. 1. I tried a piece of 3/4" thick 4" wide & 6' long mild steel set Some good points 1. The steel holds heat for a long time (hours).
Go down to your local appliance repair store, and pick up a length of three wire oven wiring. It has a case on the outside of the wires that will withstand the heat of your oven. (Mark Wendt) Normal PVC coated wire will quickly melt at oven temperatures. I believe the melting point for that insulation is around 275°. The good news is that you can still use it as long as it is placed on the outside of your insulation, and provided you are using good insulation. Where the wire will need to enter the oven, strip back all of the insulation for ever how long you need, leaving a bare wire. Find an auto repair shop, preferably someone who works on hot rods, and get a 9mm, silicone insulated, solid core, spark plug wire. Strip out the core, and run the oven wire through the 9mm insulation. You may have to take a 1/8" drill to help open things up a bit. It's a pain, and the drill bit wont actually cut a 1/8" hole in the wire. You can further lubricate the wire to facilitate installation. The silicone will still be there even if you have an oven meltdown. (Martin-Darrell)
The heating element from the dishwasher bends. Just straighten it out and you are good to go. Look for the power rating of the element, the on I pulled was 750W at 120V, and is more than adequate to do the job. These elements are typically round/oval, with threaded ends that have 90 degree bends, which are perfect for mounting on your oven. (Kyle Druey) Be real careful when you bend those elements back to straight, if they've had power applied to them and have been heat set. Those elements are designed to be bent before they've been heated, but you can bend them straight. If you crack the insulation on the outside of the element while bending them straight, you run the risk of 110v or 220 v right on the surface of the element, and that would transmit directly to your oven. Shocking experience...(Mark Wendt)
A fellow here in Tulsa just delivered my oven today: 6' length at 6x10" exterior with a stainless 4x8" interior, piano-hinged at one end, all Pittsburgh seams for $50. Said he'd do the same for anyone needing/wanting them. Turn around was about a week. Certainly have no personal financial interest myself. He just did a terrific job for me and I bet he'd do the same for anyone else. Shipping would probably be a doozie... Now I need to get the hi-temp wiring, heating element and insulation before I can make my very own charcoal. (Gerald Buckley)
I haven't been able to find the insulation to put between the two boxes. I've searched several retailers and wholesalers, but I haven't had any luck. Everything I've found is not rated for temps in the 300-400 degree range. I would really appreciate ideas on where I can find some. Also, any ideas for a temperature gauge? I would like one with a gauge that I can mount on the outside but where the sensor is on the inside. I'm looking forward to getting back to working with bamboo. I've spent far too much time building this oven. It sure is going to be a nice one though. (Mike Ealy) I found some insulation at E.J. Bartells, NFI. 425-228-4111, 800-468-9528 It is ceramic insulation about 1" thick and rated at 2200° Comes in a roll about 2' wide. Quality stuff that really works well. I use Weber barbecue thermometers, the ones with a probe about 4" long in my oven. You can get them anywhere they sell Webber parts. (Don Schneider) I found a place to buy the correctly rated insulation here in Tulsa and it's really affordable, readily available and came in 4 x 8 sheets. Just looked in the yellow pages under "insulation" made some phone calls, explained what the insulation was going into (an oven operating for short periods of time around 500 degrees - obvious overkill) and they fixed me right up. Bet you'd have similar luck in or around Clearwater. (Gerald Buckley) I have a simple set up. I got the insulation from Builders Square. I use an oven thermometer from Walmart. Both have cooked 30 rods without problem . I have overheated the oven but generally operate it at 375. (Rich McGaughey) What you need to find is an industrial insulation supplier. Check with a local HVAC guy, and ask him if he knows of any distributors for boiler insulation. That's how I found my local distributor (well, sorta local. I had to drive about 45 miles to get to my "local" distributor... ;^}) (Mark Wendt)
Is there any kind of heat-tolerant tape I can use that won’t skew my readings? Do I rely on the rigidity of the sensor line to basically hold the sensors in position by bending the heavy gauge wire? I am supposing I want to measure the relative temperature at the level of the bamboo (as opposed to at the top of the oven where it may be hotter). So, positioning of the sensors... Top center? Side middle? Again (and typical of me) thinking to much and experimenting too little :) Thanks in advance for the input that’s bound to flow. (Gerald Buckley) The sensor to your thermostat consists of a capillary bulb attached to the thermostat via a small copper tube (the "wire" you referred to). I cut an opening on the top of my oven at midsection. I attached the bulb inside the oven with small metal clamps. The oven seems to work OK, but I do have some hot spots. If I ever build another oven, I will build the "million" dollar type that M-D and Mark have. (Dave Alexander) When you design it, make it the same height as theirs, but a stepped design, width-wise; something like this.
The 2 foot x 2 foot end can be easily used as a home pizza oven when not cooking cane - sure to make your expenditures easily justified to SWMBO, as well as making you a great inventor in the eyes of your kids! (Claude Freaner) The idea is to get the bulb (the sensing part) into the oven as close to half way as possible - a way of doing that is to attach it to the Hardware cloth that the shelf is made of - and it is insulated from the side walls where the lose ( heat escape is) - I have used short pieces of bare copper wire to do this - then once the "shelf" is in place an idea is to take a 2 x 4 and lightly tap downward on the flat surface - this will help assure that the shelf is flat and will help prevent the entrance of unwanted bends due to bumps in the shelf surface - this is especially important with tip sections. I know that there are several other ideas now for ovens - but even with mild fluctuations in the inside of the cabinet - I feel it is still a valid design - one of the leading causes of fluctuations is that the heating element is not supported as recommended - using short pieces of conduit at 3 places along the length of the element - and have the element suspended. (Wayne Cattanach)
Just wondering if anybody has thoughts on the explosion thang. (Lee Orr) I too use a heat gun oven. Nothing fancy at all. Just a straight horizontal tube with a heat gun stuck on the end. There are a couple of holes drilled right at where the gun attaches to the tube to draw in air. This oven works best by using convection currents. The heat gun is variable output but, I can regulate the heat in the tube by raising or lowering the far end of the tube. The more air that spills out (to a point) of the end, the hotter it gets inside my oven. So if I raise the far, ungunned end it will get hotter, if I lower the end, it begins to cool off. In any event, there are no holes drilled the length of the tube to vent hot air. There are three holes drilled that the thermocouples are inserted into though, but they are covered with insulation and are inconsequential to the actual operation of the oven. In fact the entire tube is covered with insulation. (Mike Shay)
You did nothing wrong. The design is the trouble. Short of modifying: 1] the element Or turfing the whole shebang and putting a recirculation oven system in it's place. Now I know this is going to piss on someone’s parade, but maybe we should all confess that most of us have found the oven design regaled in song/story/internet BB and books is just plain poor. Even Garrison flipped the cane from end to end recognizing that the design was poor. Keane talks about a Garrison rod darker in the middle than the ends. Now I built one and turfed it about 15 years ago. But the books and stories keep coming about folks having the same trouble. Oh sure, some folks get along with them, flipping and modifying the things every which way but fundamentally the design is just plain lousy. The real question is: Are we helping beginning rod builders by passing on information that touts poorly designed equipment? If we expect beginners to progress and set new bench marks for us to aspire to, we got to provide them with quality information. Or maybe the real question should be: Should I tell the truth as I see it or maybe just go fishing and shed the shack nasties. (Don Anderson) OK guys, how about laying out the basic design elements for an oven that will work as desired/needed? (Larry Puckett) I simply cannot convert anyone to retrogress in their thinking on heat treating., I see some of the ovens available and i, too, begin to salivate. But the fact remains that if you want repeatable results rod after rod. Results with virtually all of the ambient moisture expelled, uniform color of the cane; no matter what the temperature of the shop may be, no matter what the humidity may be you have to go back to basics. Forget the stainless steel sheet metal, forget the intricate and often costly heating elements, forget the forced air heating, forget programmable thermostats, heat sinks, shielding and flipping end to end, and complex timing formulas. It takes an engineer to do all of those things and I would rather build rods. I explained my technique in Power Fibers, but basically it requires two clothes hangers, five feet of iron pipe, two wooden plugs and a propane torch. Pop the strips in the pipe, pop in the plugs, used the coat hangers to suspend the rod at a decent height, and pass the propane torch back and forth rotating the pipe 1/4 turn after each pass of the torch. The rod is done when the steam exiting from a small hole in the pipe stops and the odor of volatile oils commences. Go no further. You are done. Just remember the smell and you can duplicate the results time after time. (Ralph Moon) I guess you should avoid heat treating when you have a cold <VBG>. Thanks for the sage advice. (Larry Puckett) That is my heat treating regimen almost to the T. After getting scared by all the fancy expensive contraptions in the various books. I looked at George Barnes and Claude Krieder’s book and thank goodness there was a sensible solution. (Bill Taylor) I used exactly the same technique for about 40 rods. Was an aluminum pipe suspended in clothes line wire loops with pipe caps on each end. A vapor exit hole was drilled about 2" from the end caps. In each cap, I installed a 0>500F thermometer. I used a Bernz-o-matic Propane torch and played the fire along the pipe. A couple of things I found out by accident: 1] I couldn't play the torch forth and back as the center of the pipe got hotter than the ends. I finally used a "loop" system where I played it down the pipe from left to right and lifted it off the pipe for the return journey. 2] The thermometers told me what the temp was getting to. If I recall about 325F was the magic number. They also told me it mattered which hand I used to play the torch. If left handed, the left end of the pipe got hotter first, if I used my right hand, the right end got hotter first. 3] I used to have by little girl read the thermometers - when she went off to university about 15 years ago, the technique had to change. Then I rigged trailer mirrors up so I could read the thermometer. Worked - but not as well as my daughter. 4] Like Ralph says, you can tell when the water is gone and the volatile oils are starting to come off. The reason I quit using the pipe oven was every now and then I'd screw up and get one hotter @ the middle than the ends or hotter @ one end than the other. I built the convection oven to resolve my shortcomings. Now the tempering this is idiot proof and I frankly need all the help I can get. (Don Anderson) One difference between heating in an iron pipe versus an electric oven is that the blank is suspended in the oven and does not touch the heating element. Although the blank does touch some sort of support, normally wire mesh. In the iron pipe method, in essence, the iron pipe is the heating element in that the torch heats the pipe, but it is the pipe that heats the oven. As you turn the pipe the blank rolls inside the pipe but it is always in contact with the pipe. Granted that contact is not limited to a single point or area, but that contact is what would concern me. Is that a needless concern or can you comment further? Another question, Don, would be if your use of aluminum pipe rather than iron caused you to have a hot spot in the center? (Tim Wilhelm) I have observed no problems, but one reason I used the iron pipe instead of aluminum or copper, was that the thickness of the pipe seemed to me to be more uniform. I could envision hot spots with aluminum or copper. (Ralph Moon) Also, since iron is not as good a conductor, (that's why copper is first choice for electrical wiring, with aluminum second and iron is seldom or never used) it tends to hold the heat better once it gets hot. I'd expect more even distribution of heat for that reason too. (Neil Savage) I started with a similar set up. I took 1/2 inch copper pipe inserted inside a 3/4 inch copper pipe (both five feet long), and shimmed (with bamboo chopsticks) between the two to get an even air gap between them. I used copper for the excellent heat conductivity. Cap one end with a wooden plug, insert thermometer thru the plug, and heat the whole shebang with a heat gun. The heat gun heats the outside tube, which heats the air, which heats the inside tube nice and evenly throughout. I pass down along the whole length and back, then turn, pass, turn, etc, To evenly heat the unit for the proper time and temperature. As stated before, look for the steam and odor for doneness. Works great. (Chris Obuchowski) The reason I chose aluminum is that I wanted to use pipe caps on each end and needed the ends threaded to accept the pipe caps. The pipe caps in turned were bored and thread to accept 3/4" ANSI pipe thread bimetallic 0<500F thermometers. Further, aluminum accepts and sheds heat rapidly and I thought that it might reduce the danger of a hot spot as the heat would not only travel well along the aluminum but out to the atmosphere. The aluminum used was 1" electrical conduit which is about schedule 80 or so. I rejected copper as I would have had to "sweat" on caps that might not last in the high temps. required for HT. The screwed caps worked OK although the difference in metal expansion between the aluminum pipe and steel caps caused the use of a pipe wrench occasionally. (Don Anderson) One trick to keep the cane away from the pipe is to cut a few finish nails to a length slightly less than the ID of the pipe. Then bind the nails crossways to the sections in a few spots. They act like a rack to keep the sections centered. I did my first couple rods that way. It worked fine. (Tom Smithwick) I must admit that there can be some danger. I recall a student of mine who didn't have a nose for the technique. I kept asking him, " is it done yet," and he kept replying, " nope." Finally I got up from my dead behind and opened the plug to see for myself and the tip therein burst into flame. Another lesson learned. Actually, I could never get the electric oven to work; that's why the pipe technique. (Ralph Moon) Check out my article in Power Fibers, or Don Anderson's plans for a convection oven. I firmly believe that a convection oven is the way to go, because there are no hot spots in the heat treating chamber. My convection oven has two chambers, one to house the elements and fan system, and the other with the rack that holds the cane to be heat treated. The temperature at any point in the heat treating chamber is identical to any other point in the heat treating chamber. And, taking it one step further, controlling the oven with a PID computer controller which keeps the temperature in the heat treating chamber ± 1 degree. (Mark Wendt) Try a strip of bamboo with the door cracked open, as Don is pointing out there can be quite a few things that MAY cure the problem. But air circulation is the one key to even temps inside an oven. If I crack the door open on mine (air duct style w/fan) I can raise the temps at the door and lower the temps in the rest of the oven. (John Freedy)
My questions are these: Has anyone tried, and succeeded, to build an oven using an electric burner/hot plate type element, straightened out? If that has the juice to raise the temp in my oven to 300+ degrees, that might work slick since it has a built in temp control that I can use. Also, I know folks have used the mica strip element successfully. However, I found some strip elements that look like they might work well. They are made by Chromalux and have a chrome steel sheath and rated to 1000+ degrees. I downloaded the specs for using the things in an oven and it seems pretty straight forward. Anyone know anything about this type of element? Finally, what about infrared elements? Anyone have some experience there? I found a good deal and might be able to set that up. It looks pretty tough and can be bent and mounted in a variety of ways. I'm probably over thinking this. Logic tells me to just go with the mica strip and build it like everyone else. But, I'm also interested in convenience and economy when I can find it. (Jason Swan) I made my oven with a broiler element from an old stove. Straightened out it is 58 inches long. 4000 watts at 230 volts. I run it on 120 volts for about 2000 watts. You only need somewhere around 500 to 600 watts to run a bamboo heat treat oven hot enough to make crispy critters our of your sticks. Those mineral insulated elements didn't start life all bent up. They were straight. Besides, if I messed it up, it was junk before I started with it. I use a Chromalux controller with a type J thermocouple to control the temperature. (Jerry Drake) 4000 at 230ish is 1000 at 110ish. Still plenty to cook the strips, though. (Larry Blan) I built my oven using two electric hot plate burners I purchased from Walmart for about $6 each. I bought new ones because I heard the used ones don't bend very well (not sure if this is true or not-never tried). I used the temperature controllers that came with the hot plates, so I'm able to adjust the temperature with some degree of accuracy. I also have a thermometer mounted in the center of the unit to give me a more precise reading. I picked up the aluminum from a local scrap yard - very cheap. I used ceramic oven insulation that I purchased locally. When the temp on the inside is 300-400 degrees, the outside stays nice and cool. I ended up buying a whole roll of the insulation because I couldn't find the size I needed. It wasn't that expensive though, maybe $10-$15. (Mike Ealy)
There is no solution of high temps in the center and lessor towards the ends. The problem is the design itself. The only way to get a even temperature is to circulate the air within the oven. Been through the high temp on each end thing about 15 years ago. Built a circulation oven to stop the problem. (Don Anderson) Don is most likely correct about this, but since the hot spot is in the center, maybe you could mitigate the problem by installing a baffle over the center portion of the element. I would not suggest a solid piece of metal, as that would cause more problems than it solves. I'm thinking something like a metal screen, or a piece of perforated metal. That's just a thought, it does not come with my usual double your money back guarantee:-) I have always been a fan of Don's design, if you can't solve the problem, I would certainly suggest you try to adapt his design ideas to your setup. (Tom Smithwick) I agree with Don. You need air circulation, convection ovens, to get even heat. I've tried elements from electric ovens, circular cooking elements and flat bar strips making radiant ovens. All had the same problem - uneven heat. Incidentally, a guy at an appliance parts store told me you can buy straight oven elements of various lengths/wattage and bend them to what ever shape you want but you have to shape them before you use them the first time. Otherwise you run the risk of breaking the outside covering. I know some have bent/straighten used elements with success though. The key is air circulation. Some on the list make some very efficient/even heat ovens with very precise temp controls. If you are looking for insulation, check out www.ejbartells.com They have a ceramic wool that is very efficient. (Don Schneider) Use a heat gun oven, or build a convection oven like Don did. Of the two solutions, the heat gun oven is definitely simpler. The down side (maybe the upside too) is that you have to constantly monitor the temperature while you're heat treating, because there is no thermostat. You have to adjust the temperature while you are heat treating if you want to maintain a fixed temp. I use a vertical heat gun oven made from 5-foot lengths of duct. There's an 8" duct on the outside, 1" of insulation, a 6" duct on the inside of that, and a 4" duct in the center. The hot air goes into the 6" duct near the top, down around the 4" duct, and back up inside the 4" duct. I just hang the rod sections from a wire across the top of the 4" duct. The counter current air flow helps to maintain a uniform temperature. (Robert Kope) Depends on where your heat source is and whether you are using a blower/heatgun type oven. You might try to put more insulation on the ends to keep down the heat transfer energy loss out the ends of the oven. Just a quick thought and suggestion. (Frank Paul)
I put a Love 1600 on my oven last winter. Paid about $75 on eBay. A friend of my configured and wired it for me. The wiring was more complicated than I was willing to deal with. I also had to have a compatible thermocouple sensor. You'll find a lot of controllers on eBay. Search for "temperature controller". There are several Fahrenheit 999s listed that include a free type k thermocouple. As I recall, I just had to make sure the unit was rated for the temperature range I needed. I also found a PDF version of the users manual on the web before I bought the thing. There was no way we could have configured and wired it without the manual. (David Bolin) Just visited with the friend that installed my controller. He reminded me that the thermocouple may have a limited temperature range. If you buy one that has a thermocouple included, be sure to ask what temperature range it covers before you buy it. (David Bolin) I bought a Omron controller and type J thermocouple on eBay. I use a small relay to limit the current running through the controller and it works great. The Omron web page can provide details as to wiring and specs. Hope this helps. (Bob McElvain) "Solid State Relays" typically have a resistance of around 70 ohms, that wastes a fair amount of power. Either look for a resistance around 10 ohms or less or buy a mechanical relay (typically an ohm or so). (George Bourke)
I am having difficulty in finding 1" thick Duct board (compressed fiberglass, foil faced). Has anyone experienced using non craft faced fiberglass insulation, perhaps R13, compressed into the one inch cavity? My outer 6" x 10" duct is in two pieces (U shaped) so would be no problem in assembly for me. I plan on pop riveting the two sections together, over the insulation and inner section. I am sure others have experience in the insulation of an oven. Any help will be appreciated. (Denny Conrad) You may want to test a small piece of the insulation you are planning to use by putting it in a tuna can and heat it to 400° in your oven WHEN YOUR WIFE IS NOT AT HOME. (Don Schneider) I may have just what you need. I had to buy a bale of the stuff when I made my oven on the same duct-within-a-duct principle. It is 1" thick insulation rated for (if memory serves) 1200 degrees F. If you're going to the Roscoe gathering I may be able too get some to you. I've got 13 2'x4' slabs. Trade you 4 of those for a Cree juvie hen neck. How's that sound? Anybody else have a need? I'm in Maine. I want to keep 3 of them for covering a drying box, but otherwise I don't need the rest. (Henry Mitchell) I ended up going with Precipitator Spin-Glas. I picked up three sheets, 2' x 4' x 1" this AM. my cost was $16.14. It is a product of Johns Manville, Eastern Region is in Defiance OH. 1-800-334-2399. Western Region is in Denver, CO. Application: Specifically designed for insulating precipitators, baghouses, scrubbers, ducts and breechings in power generation plants. Also suited for boilers, heaters, ovens and other industrial equipment operating at temperatures up to 850ºF (454ºC). I am sure it is available all over the US, just need to contact a rep for dealers in your area. My cost was .62¢ per sq. ft. Not shipped but picked up at a local industrial supplier here in Spokane. I was assured by a factory rep. that this product would better suit my needs than duct board which was priced out of sight. It has no foil face and is quite board like. It weighs 2.4 Lbs. per cubic foot, semi-rigid, lightweight, felted board composed of fine rotary process fibers bonded with a special organic resin. Note: It is available in 1, 2, 3, & 4 inch thickness. (Denny Conrad)
There are any number of sources for heat gun oven plans. Here are a quick 2 1/2 of them. I can't comment on any of the designs other than the Cattanach style oven, which is the most elaborate. I'll leave that for others. Frank Neunemann's page - The site is done in java or some such, so I don't have a direct link. You'll have to navigate to the bamboo section, and then the article section. The one that started it all... the Rodmakers page. Go to Rodmakers, then the tool section. Much worthwhile reading on all 3, if you aren't familiar with them. (Larry Blan)
My Problem is: I cannot find even the name/nomenclature of the insulated high temp wire I need to hook up the strip? I have searched the internet, made numerous phone calls and come up with nothing. I only need a hot and a neutral as the unit is grounded. Can anyone give me any direction? Anxious to fire it up. (Denny Conrad) Head down to your local appliance repair store and get yourself a package of oven wire. Usually it comes in three-wire sections about 8 - 10 feet long. (Mark Wendt) What you are looking for is high temperature fiberglass coated wire used in kitchen ovens. It is usually sold in 12 gauge and 14 gauge. I used 14 in mine, my element is about 1500 watts. If you buy it from an electrical supply house you will have to buy 75 ft. rolls, usually about 25 bucks for the 14 gauge and 35 for the 12 gauge. I went to a local appliance repair shop and they sold it to me by the foot. If you can't find it locally contact me off list and I can give you the info to get it from my outlet. (Tom Vagell) McMaster Carr - West Coast (LA) Phone (562) 692-5911 Wire - 8209K19 - 12ga high temp wire - $2.79/ft Terminal - 69405K41 - 10/12ga wire, #8 stud (verify first) - $11.57/pack of 100 (Larry Blan) If you just can't find it locally as a couple of list members indicated in earlier replies, I just purchased some from Grand Technologies in Grand Rapids, Michigan. Great folks! Give them a call and you receive it in a few days. Grand Technologies, Inc. 12 gauge wire High temp - $1.30 per foot. (Scott Bahn)
Not quite, Black goes to the brass screw. The black (hot wire) goes to the thermostat then to the heat strip. The white wire is the neutral it goes from the silver screw to the other terminal on the heat strip. (Tony Spezio) It is also advisable to put a fuse or circuit breaker between the black wire and the first of your oven connections, the reason being if your oven draws too much current (i.e., enough current to turn something not intended to be a heating element into a heating element) it keeps stuff from melting or catching fire. You should choose the fuse or breaker (measured in current flow, Amperes, "amps", or "A") such that normal oven operation isn't affected (i.e., it doesn't trip with the normal current drawn by your heating element). (George Bourke) I'm confused by your advice. First of all, both of the screws on the thermostat are silver. So I can see how the black wire from the power cord goes to one connection on thermostat and then a wire goes from the other connection on the thermostat to the mica strip. I don't understand why or how the white wire would connect to the thermostat. Both terminals are already used. I would think that the white wire from the power cord would hook up to the other terminal on the mica strip. (Mark Lenarz) I should have said there are exceptions, this is one of them. I have my black wire going in and then out if the thermostat, only the "hot" black is used on the thermostat, that is the way I do it. I guess the neutral " white can be used to break the circuit but I prefer to use the black. The thermostat breaks the circuit when the temp reaches what you have it set for. It might still need adjustment. The last one I had was 100 degrees off. Read the adjustment instructions to set it. Lamp sockets and plugs and outlets have a brass and a silver screw. If there is both brass and silver, the black goes to the brass and the white to the silver, then there is a green screw. The ground goes to the green. Another exception is in a three way switch, well let's not get into that. Hope this will "un confuse" what I confused you with. LOL Just be safe around electricity. (Tony Spezio) The neutral wire should never be switched. It wants to be a continuous run back to the service panel. (Larry Blan) I agree, I did say the white can be used. "Can" was not the right word to use I guess. Breaking the circuit with the hot wire (black) is the only safe way to go. (Tony Spezio) My oven is off by 75 degrees, but I don't have any instructions. Actually I didn't even know you could adjust the oven thermostat. If its not to difficult to explain, or if you could scan the instructions I would like to try to adjust mine also. Second question is where would you place an LED light, that is how would you wire it, so you can tell when the oven is up to temp. (Floyd Burkett) My scanner is not working, can't scan the instructions, here is what I did. I had thought my new oven was not coming up to temp because I was not getting the color on the bamboo for the same amount of time that I used with my old oven. On my thermostat, the adjusting screw is in the shaft that the control knob goes on, you have to lift the control knob off the shaft to reach it. It takes a long skinny screwdriver to reach the screw through the knob shaft. My small screw drivers were not long enough to reach the screw so I made one from a length of 3/16 rod. I put an oven thermometer in the oven and set the thermostat to 400 degrees. After the the thermostat kicked off, I checked the thermometer in the oven and it read 300 degrees I have to assume the oven thermometer was right. Screwed in the screw a bit and repeated this till the oven thermometer read the same as the dial setting. I installed a ( Radio Shack) LED light on the electric box cover that the thermostat is mounted on. It is wired from the "out" end of the thermostat with a pigtail wire. This will be the hot side of the LED. When the thermostat shuts off the light will go out and back on when the thermostat kicks back on. (Tony Spezio)
User manual with instructions for wiring at this site. It is as a PDF file and is twenty pages or so and a 170k file so the download should be easy. (Charley McNeil) That is the Series 945 limit control manual. The link for the temperature control manual is here. (Larry Blan)
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