This photo is of the front of the oven with the door open.  You can see how small the opening is, only 3”x 6”.  Note that there is expanded metal for the rack, which is barely visible.

This photo shows the little PID, the timer and the relay.  The PID is the small square above the white square that is the timer.  The relay is behind the box for the PID/timer.

This photo shows the motor, adjustable motor mount, bearing blocks, fan shaft, etc.  I’m not sure, but you may be able to see a small bolt sticking out of the oven near the top of the motor.  This provides a block on top of the motor, so that it cant tilt in when tightening the belt with the motor mount.  It really takes a little of both do make it work and run quietly.  I really need to add an idler pulley so that the belt vibration would be diminished.  I used 1/8” steel plate underneath the motor/bearing blocks.  This is too thin, and I had to put in a cross-member to keep the plate from flexing when the belt is tightened.  My fan blade was so close toleranced inside the duct that any deviation caused it to strike the duct -- not a good thing.  If I was doing it again, I would use 1/4” plate, but I still think the cross-member would be required.

You’ll note that on my oven, the fan blows down the length of the oven, rather than across it as Don Anderson’s does, from whom I got the idea of the convection oven, and who contributed his input.  Still, it’s just a personal choice, though I think a better way to do it, as the fan blows across the elements, then into the chamber with the bamboo.  Note that there is a divider down the center of the oven, on the inside, with a 6” opening on each end.  Also, I put a thin piece of stainless around the ends and into the corners, giving them a radius, so as to facilitate the air flow.