My design tool by deflection produces the output in 1 inch interval. It can draw very smooth deflection curve and as a result of calculation, I can get a very smooth taper.

Problem is how to realize this smooth taper to be planed.

Is there any tool or method which makes it possible to implement 1 inch interval control on the taper, WITHOUT using beveller or mills?     (Max Satoh)

The simplest solution for hand planers might be to add push/pull screws to your planing forms at one inch intervals.  (Harry Boyd)

It could be done, but I, for one, am not that dedicated that I want to make 90 adjustments for a 7'6" rod, not to mention trying to keep track of which one I was trying to do.  (Neil Savage)

It may be really adjustment efforts to plane by 1 inch and if it's by hand.

Shaving outside, sanding 5" interval, or designing tapers with straight intervals, might be another choice.

Then, what is the best tool to implement 1" control? Though even mill or beveler seems to need adjustment by 1". Which machine is easiest to set 1" taper?  (Max Satoh)

The design of most planing forms consists of two 1 inch X 1 inch steel bars. When you set dimensions at 5 inch increments you do not get a sharp bend in the form but instead a smooth curve transition from one station to the next because the bars are so stiff. So, even if you had forms with adjusting screws at 1 inch increments, I don't think you would be able to alter the taper with such precision.  If the forms had thin slots cut into the outside edges to allow easier bending then you could produce a more precise taper, but my question is: Would it be so much different from the one made at 5 inch intervals to have made a noticeable difference?  I don't think so. There are far to many other variables in making a rod that will obscure such efforts.  (Al Baldauski)

I don't know so far how it does make difference by 1" interval from 5" interval. I just wanted to consider how to implement 1" control without spending much money. LOL

While playing around several types of rod deflection, the resulted tapers also differ from one to another.  To realize the differences, I have to make them one by one, anyway.  If I follow the way of Garrison, I may be able to make rather straighter tapers which will fit with 5" interval Planing Form.   It is also an interesting try to make various types of deflection by changing the degrees and portions of bending more or less, by fixing the 5" station intervals as  straight as possible.

As you advised, it may be a good way to make Planing Form from softer metal like brass bars, which may be more flexible for 1" control, and easier to make, if I need to make one.  Thank you, I take this idea.

There may be more things to be considered on a rod for smoother transition of force such as taper, node, ferrule, etc.. All these small matters may affect the feeling of a rod action as a whole.  There are so many things to play with in the rest of my life. Rod making is really enjoyable by those matters.

A rod deflection, I am playing now, is interesting. A deflection I mean consists of the sum of bend angles of subdivided rod sections. An entire flexure of a rod is counted as the sum of bend angles of 1" sections of the rod.  As the result, tip top tangent angle represents the whole flexure of the rod as the sum of 1" bend angles.

Considering this reversely, for instance, 80 degrees tip top tangent angle could be resulted in various tapers which distributes the bend angles in various ways along with the entire length. If I distribute the 80 degrees evenly along with the entire length, (e.g. for 7 ft rod, 1" bend angle is 80 divided by 74" action length, each 1" section will bend 1.08 degree), the rod would flex evenly like a crescent, and the tip top tangent makes 80 degrees.  If I do it 60 or 70% of 80 degrees on tip section, the rod may become tip action type.  60 or 70% on butt, rather parabolic,  like that.  90 degree tip top tangent angle  would also result in various tapers. Various kinds of tapers, there are! by changing both of the tip top tangent angles and their distributions.

When I get those various types of taper, I may need to control those tapers in 1".  (Max Satoh)

I think that Luis Marden  (the late Smithsonian photographer) had a planing form with push-pull screws at one inch intervals. So it has been done.

I think his form also had built-in micrometers for adjusting the taper. The story is that he had the Smithsonian machine shop guys make it for him.  (Jeff Schaeffer)

It might be interesting to set up forms at 5"  intervals and then measure them at 1" intervals.  My guess is that you  might be closer to your goal than you think.  (Ed Berg)

Yeah, it may be true.   While we believe the station interval is straight, sometimes the pressure of plane might make the depth wider between the PF stations apart from our consciousness. On the other hand, bunch of bamboo dusts between the Planing Form bars might make the depth shallower than expected very often. (Are we making various tapers by these? LOL)

I maybe able to use 5" Planing Forms  for 1" control (consciously. LOL).

You encouraged me very much with several ideas.  As there were several opinions given to me offlist, and for the purpose of the list, I dare to introduce those ideas as follows;

* Use hi tech plastic or nylon for more flexible Planing Forms.

* Use softer material for Planing Forms

* Use thin plate for more flexible Planing Forms

* Place shims between Planing Forms bars

* Cut outer side of PF bars for flexure of Planing Forms

* Put push/pull screws at 1" interval .

My idea:

* Shave, Sand outside of blank off after gluing.

This is often used when we make inside out blanks where enamel side faces inside and pith side is facing outside.

If it is just for test rod purpose, it might be forgiven to sand outside of glued blank just a bit even in normal outside out making either.

I made a jig,  I  call  as  Para  grinder  (the  pan  of  Para  glider,  my ex-favorite fly), which will sandwich a rod blank by two pieces of sand papers and sand both sides of the blank at the same time by pushing the blank forth and back. This is also good to finalize the surface of rod blanks prior to coat.  (Max Satoh)