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Anyone having experience with converting a 2 piece rod into a one piece? Can I just use the numbers as is or should compensate.... (Danny Twang) It depends on what you want. If you absolutely want to preserve the original action, use Hexrod to compensate. If you don't, you will get some extra zip out of a rod that will still be lighter than the original. Personally, I would normally choose that option. If you have a step-down ferrule, that complicates things a bit. I would still use Hexrod to smooth things out in the center of the rod, but I would want to look at the stress curve and dimensions before commenting. (Tom Smithwick)
For quite some time I thought the difference in dimension between similar tapers with different number of pieces was based on the stiffness of the ferrule either being added or removed. The more I read though, I now think that its based more on the weight of the ferrule. By adding in a ferrule you need to add more cane below the ferrule to carry the weight. Or conversely, by removing a ferrule you can remove more material in the butt to compensate. My question though is how do you decide how much to add or subtract. I'll give you an example that most people should be familiar with. Wayne's "Sir D" in his book is given in both two and three piece versions in various line weights and lengths. I'll focus on the 7' 4 wt. (top of page 182 in my copy of his book). The dimensions for both the two and three piece are identical for stations 0-25, which makes sense since there wouldn't be a ferrule encountered until 28 inches. Starting at station 30 though the 3 piece begins to get progressively larger. The dimensions for the two tapers are listed below. station 2 piece 3 piece 30 .152 .154 The difference starts out small and gets bigger until the ferrule point of the two piece. It slows down then (because there is no ferrule at 47 inches in the 3 piece) and picks up again after the final ferrule in the 3 piece. Converting this rod is not a big deal because I have a book that lists the taper. What if I didn't have a book? I tried using hexrod to change the same 2 piece Sir D into a three piece and came up with different numbers. Not vastly different, but still different. What's more, when I told Hexrod to use truncated ferrules I got still different numbers. One of the reasons I even bring this up is that this winter I want to try to make a longer 1 piece rod as well as a rod using a FIBH ferrule (integrated bamboo ferrules). Lets say I want to make a 1 piece Sir D. Should I just run the 2 piece through hexrod? Or are there other factors I should keep in mind? For rods with bamboo ferrules (which are substantially lighter than metal ferrules) what adjustments should I make? Split the difference between a 1 and 2 piece taper? Any help, insights, or discussion would be great. I'd like to learn how to balance the use the a computer program with being able to use my head. (Aaron Gaffney) When comparing Wayne's 3 piece taper with the 3 piece taper you get from Hexrod, make sure that the two are using the same size ferrules. The Hexrod programs will make an assumption as to the proper size ferrules but the builder must be the final judge. The stress calculations that Hexrod performs depend on the weight of all the components (cane, ferrules, line, varnish & guides), so the sizes of the ferrules used will change the stress curve. Going to truncated ferrules will also change things. Going to cane ferrules, well you should try to find out their weight if you are going to use Hexrod to help build the taper. I have no idea if cane ferrules are lighter than a truncated NS ferrule or not. (Frank Stetzer, Hexrod, Taper Archive, Rodmakers Archive)
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