What species do fish for with your bamboo rods?




View Results
Free poll from Free Website Polls
 

Ask About Fly Fishing

iPowerWeb
 

Rod Selection - Payne Tapers

I’m hoping this will be a fairly straightforward question.  But somehow I sense it will be more difficult than I think!

I’m thinking about what to build for rod #4 and would like to build a Payne.  I like to make rods I can fish, so a mid-weight rod is most desirable (4-6 wt. for Oregon fishing).  I prefer 2 piece rods, but that’s not a show-stopper.  I also like rods 7’ or longer. I've looked through the Hex rod list. But would like personal recommendations.

Given this information, what Payne rod best represents his work with (or near) the dimensions above?

Examples of what I’d provide, if someone asked me about Paul Young rods (those I’m most familiar with).

I’d recommend a Perfectionist 4 wt. for a faster, but great dry or nymphing rod.

Or a Driggs River 5 wt. if you like your rods to really bend deep into the handle (slower??) and a rod that feels one weight lower while fishing.

Or a Martha Marie for a bit more of a backbone.  A rod suited for larger western river fishing (if that really means anything!?).

Thanks for your help on selecting a Payne to build! (Scott Turner)

    I made a Payne 98 (7', 4 wt.) for my son, and liked it so well I'm making one for myself.  I used the Ron Barch taper which smoothes out the jump between the tip and butt so you can use a standard ferrule instead of a step down.  For a heavier rod (7'6", 5 wt.) you might look at the Waara 5 weight.  (Neil Savage)

    I cast a couple of Payne 101's at Super Boo 2 in Maine, nice rod, 7.5' 5 wt.  It moved way up on my list of rods to build.  (Pete Van Schaack)

      I would recommend the Payne 102, as it a lot like the Granger 8040, a nice light-line trout rod. (Bill Walters)

    The Jim Payne 101 is in my opinion the best rod ever designed and built for fresh water fishing for trout!

    Big claim. Big performance.

    If you are going to build this rod, take the little bit of extra trouble to use the taper as circulated by Dennis Higham, as, again in my opinion, it and the one in the archives are like chalk and cheese.

    By the way, it's a 7'6" for a 5-weight, so, as you can see, Jim Payne designed this rod with you in mind!

    Wasn't that thoughtful of him? (Peter McKean)


I've decided to build a Payne because of how often they get mentioned here. What is your favorite Payne taper that would fit the following criteria? I like crisp fast action rods best but can accept med. fast action. Nothing over 7 1/2' as I couldn't keep an open enough mind to ever give any 8' rod a fair chance. If I'm going to fish an 8' rod it will be a Dickerson 8014 Guide. Period. Any Payne Taper 6 1/2',7', or 7 1/2' and what you like best about it and it's action.  I'll choose the one I think fits me best.  (Will Price)

    Payne 101 - 7.5' 5wt.

    There are some modified tapers out there that are fantastic - I believe Harry makes one.  (Pete Van Schaack)

      I'll second the Payne 101.  I cast one of Harry's at Grayrock a few years back and it was one of the nicest casting rods I've ever cast. IIRC, there was a Dickerson 8014 there that year.  I liked the Payne 101 a bit better.  (George Bourke)

    If you want "crisp" action, IE a faster rod then either the 101 or the 7', 4wt .. 98. You can't go wrong with either taper. In 3 piece configuration the 197 is a 7 1/2' fast 6wt. Anything else in Payne under 7 1/2' is going to be medium fast.  (Dennis Higham)

    I'm partial to the 96, a 6'6" 4wt. I would call it medium/fast and very pleasant to fish with, a bit snappier than Dickerson's 6611.  (John Channer)

    The Payne 101, 7'6" for 5 weight is a great taper for general river fishing situations.  For a line weight lighter, the 98 is also bloody good.

    To add a bit to your thoughts on 8'0" rods, I believe that the Gillum 8'0" 6 weight as detailed in The Lovely Reed is a better and more pleasant rod than the Dickerson.  I have made a few of these big Dickersons, and they seem to me to be just "brute force and ignorance", to use a hackneyed quote - pick 'em up and put 'em down again,  whereas the Gillum has a magnificent action. Not so stiff as the Dickerson, admittedly, but very powerful.  I have never had a buyer complain about this taper. Make one and compare.   (Peter McKean)

      I agree, I made a Dickerson 8015.  I call it "The Club". Fishing it all day will wear out your arm.  (Ron Larsen)

        The problems with the few Dickersons I have built are similar to most of them, i.e. the step down ferrule and what I have previously referred to as the gorilla butt. This produces a rod with most of its action in the zone above the ferrule, the tip and butt being usually rather straight! Many early carbon rods seemed to suffer from a similar affliction, Bruce and Walker and the Shakespeare boron that everyone except me raved about being the other, it was a 9'10'' #9. I think we know a lot more about rod design these days.  (Robin Haywood)


Anybody have the taper for a 3-piece Payne 100? (Bill Walters)

    Hope this helps. (Don Green)

    Payne 100 7.5 Ft 4 Wt
       Rod Name Payne 100
       Length (inches) 90
       Length (feet) 7.5
       Line Weight 4
       Number of pieces 2
       Construction Hex
       Comments Taper from George Maurer
       Deduction for varnish 0
       Allowance for form setting 0
       Ferrule 1 0/64 Location 0

       Station Dimension Form Setting

       0      0.064     0.032
       5      0.070     0.035
       10     0.086     0.043
       15     0.101     0.051
       20     0.116     0.058
       25     0.131     0.066
       30     0.143     0.072
       35     0.155     0.078
       40     0.167     0.084
       45     0.180     0.090
       50     0.191     0.096
       55     0.203     0.102
       60     0.218     0.109
       65     0.231     0.116
       70     0.244     0.122
       75     0.268     0.134
       80     0.300     0.150
       85     0.300     0.150

    Bill, go into Hexrod and change either the Payne 100 or the 100h to 3 piece, depending on which you want to build. (Neil Savage)

    I believe Mike Brooks has the taper of an actual 3 piece 100 made by Payne. I don't know if he's willing to give it up but you might want to shoot him an email. (Jim Lowe)

      The Payne model 100 is a 2 piece rod, The 3 piece rod that is similar is the model 197 which is the slower of the 7'6" 3 piece rods. (Hal Bacon)

        Yeah I know; but, Mike swears it's a 100 3 piece one-off made by Payne and marked that way.

        To quote what Mike wrote on Clarks: " Rev. Lee Eames... actually has an original Payne 100 that was custom built by Jim Payne as a 3 piece rod. I got it from him a couple of years back to make a new tip for one that was down. Neat rod. " (Jim Lowe)


 

Site Design by: Talsma Web Creations

[Tips Home] [What's New] [Tips] [Articles] [Tutorials] [Contraptions] [Contributors] [Contact Us] [Taper Archives] [Christmas Missives] [Chat Room] [Photo Galleries] [Line Conversions] [The Journey] [Extreme Rodmaking] [Rodmaker's Pictures] [Donate] [Store]