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Here is the node press that I use. I built the pair stacked on top of each other to save on space. I wanted something I could move around the shop easily and still have it close at hand. It’s important for me to let the strip cool as long as possible in the jaws, so I use this rig along with my original Pony vise and I can be working on 3 strips at once. I’m actually heating a strip all of the time instead of standing at the bench watching one strip cool down. It’s a much more productive method and provides a much more efficient use of a heat gun.
The maple jaws press on the end grain and are secured with disc magnets epoxied into the block. I tried using the adhesive strip type of magnet, but found that over prolonged use, the strip began to shift or slide out of position. The blocks with a single magnet have a rare earth type of magnet which is much stronger than the conventional style. They cost more, but I think they’re worth it. I sanded a recess into the face of the blocks to allow the node to be displaced versus crushed. The original idea came to me from Ray Gould’s design. I sanded out different profiles for different node shapes and the magnet allows fo a quick jaw change. I still use cardboard or notecard paper shims to enhance the pressing if it’s needed on one side or the other of the node.
The cutout on the sides of the base are there if you want to clamp the unit to a bench. I haven’t found that necessary though, due to its overall weight. I painted the bar stock using the powder paint for lures and jig heads but it chips pretty easily. I’d recommend regular enamel spray paint if someone else is going to make their own.
Note: If you don’t have the machining capabilities, go out and buy an inexpensive drill press vise or two and mount them on a board back to back like Bill at Corens Rod & Reel did. It’s fast, easy and all you have to do is make the jaws. You could even stack three or more in a stair-step type of arrangement and go from there.
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