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Blank Info - Straightening - Weighting


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I was thinking about hanging some lead weight on the bottom of each section of blanks as they are drying in my cabinet. I know some rod makers claim this helps straighten sections, and I am wondering how much weight? I have heard as much as two pounds per section.

I was thinking of starting with about a pound per section to see if it really makes a difference.   (Tom Vagell)

    I've used springs before to achieve this same thing until the clip gave way on a tip section and I found the tip skewered in to the rafters of my shop the next morning. This did produce arrow straight strips but I've since given up on the idea and instead just carefully straighten before my glue sets. If the 1 pound weight makes a difference, I might consider trying this option. Let us know how it works for you.   (Jeff Fultz)

    I've hung rod sections with as much weight as the string can stand and have to admit to not having had much success with it. I think it does me more good to hang them with weight when I clean the Epon off with vinegar, then straighten them and hang them to cure with no weight.  (John Channer)

Rule

Just an update on the weight issue I asked about a couple weeks  ago. I glued up (2) two tip (2) piece rods. One a four  weight  and the other a five. All sections were fairly straight going into my drying  cabinet. On the four I hung two pounds of weight on each section, and the five I  hung three pounds. After two days pulled the string and the sections were no  more better or worse than no weight at all. I thought it would be worth a try,  and I may try it again using more weight. My general feeling though is to keep  on getting the blanks as straight as possible before going in the cabinet. I'm  not sure the weight makes a difference, at least not with URAC 185.   (Tom Vagell)

    The weight you hang on a rod section would have to be heavy enough to cause the individual strips to slip relative to one another.  That’s the only way you can get the curves out permanently.  Before the glue sets it acts as a lubricant but offsetting that is all that binding string which is trying to keep the strips from moving.  I suspect you would need several tens of pounds to cause any realignment.  Also, the straighter the sections get the more force required to get it better.  I know this doesn’t answer the question: ”How much weight do  I need?”.  Just some insight on the problem. I’m in the process of building three rods so I’m going to investigate what it takes to “get ‘em straight”.  I’ll let you know what I find out. (Al Baldauski)

    I average less than one rod per year (so take that  into account), but I agree with your statement about getting the blanks as straight as possible before putting them in a cabinet or (as I do) laying them in the planing form horizontally with weight on top. Even with Epon I used to think I had to hurry and get them into their final position (by the way I hung my first couple rods with weight). Then several (4?) years ago at a Catskills gathering I watched a couple veterans glue up a rod. What amazed me was the patience and time taken in getting the blank straight. Whether you smack em, roll them, or just carefully work them with your fingers until they are straight may not matter as much as just taking your time.  (Andy Harsanyi)

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