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Has anybody tried using the water based polys for the first several coats on guide wraps? Then overcoat with oil based finishes. I tried it on several wraps on a color stick. It almost looks like it would work as a color preserver. Doesn't look like it makes the wraps translucent either. I figured it would be a slick way to get a quick buildup on thread wraps.  (David Dziadosz)

    The Gudebrod 840 is just that. You saw my rods at the SRG. That is all I use under the final Varnish. Dries real fast.  he wraps stay the same color as the as when the thread was wrapped. some colors darken very little. One word of warning. Make sure the wraps are TOTALLY soaked or the final varnish will seep through the foot space and leave a translucent area. I started doing translucent wraps with one good coat of varnish, several coats of Gudebrod 840 and finish with varnish.  Have had real good results. Will have a couple of rods finished this way at the SRG this year.  (Tony Spezio)

Rule

I am aware of Morse's water based finish, but are the recommendations for others?  Morse's has to be ordered and I would prefer something that can be obtained in a store such as Lowes, HD, etc.  (Louis DeVos)

    I also understand that Woodworking Supply is not carrying the Mosers water-based spar anymore. Is there another supplier?  (Rich Margiotta)

      They do not ship it in the winter because it cannot be frozen.  (Larry Downey)

    I use Varathane Diamond Spar on my wraps to preserve color and make them opaque.  On the rod I'm currently making I tried brushing some on a small section of cane between signature wraps.  It dried crystal clear and very glossy.  Too glossy for my tastes actually.  Thought I might experiment some day with dipping/draining an entire rod in it.  It dries very fast so dust isn't a problem.  I've found it to be very clear (no milky or bluish tint).  Plus the water cleanup and no odor is a bonus from my family’s point to view.  Also, it can be recoated in a matter of hours.  (Aaron Gaffney)

      As I said a few days ago, I attended a wood finishing seminar earlier this month.  The lecturer remarked that the drying time listed on the can is written by the "bean counters" and you should let most if not all finishes dry at least overnight.  The fast drying time is intended to sell the product and doesn't reflect real world conditions.  (Neil Savage)

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