Bamboo Tips - Tips Area
Grips - Reaming

< Home < Tips Area < Grips < Reaming


For those of you who didn't know I'm back in Ireland and working away including on the 'Great Southern Roadtrip/SRG 2004/Michigan Mayhem' rod.  :-)   I was was reaming my grip last night and test fitting in preparation for gluing it on the blank and in test fitting I got it onto the blank and to the right spot, but ... It's on so tight I can't remove it to glue it it place. At either end there's just a hex shaped hole in the grip with no gaps where the blank protrudes.  So really I suppose I'm wondering if glue is even needed? I seem to remember someone mentioning this a while ago.  But I'd feel more comfortable with some 24 hour epoxy under the grip And the only way I can see to get it off is a hole drilled in a piece of wood and push (carefully!) the blank back through  Any guidance/words of wisdom?  Thanks in advance  (Nick Kingston)

    Try warming just the cork?

    I had one get stuck like that, set it so I could lightly tap the ferrule end of the blank and it eventually came off.  (Pete Van Schaack)

      Nick, your way should work.  A butt section would be sturdy enough to apply a fair amount of force.  I doubt you could warm the cork enough to do any good, though you could try it.  Cork is a pretty good insulator.  (Neil Savage)

        If it fits that snugly, seems the reel seat on one end and winding check/wraps on the other would keep it from going anywhere and if you did need to replace it (OK, so that rarely happens) you'd be in good shape.   (Henry Mitchell)

    I would get it off and glue it. It may work itself loose at an inopportune time. 

    Maybe a sort of cork clamp principle in reverse will work: e.g. 2 pieces of wood with center holes just bigger than the blank and 2 opposing holes on either side for threaded rods. These holes far enough apart for rods to clear the grip.

    Screw 2 nuts and washers on each threaded rod so that they are a couple of inches down the rod and touching each other. Slide on the pieces of wood, one from each end. Slide the whole lot onto the blank where the reel seat will go. Clamp the last 1/2 inch of the blank in a vice and separate the pieces of wood by separating the nuts. The vice will restrain one piece of wood and the other will push the seat off.

    My guess is that you have got it off already anyhow?  (Steve Dugmore)


As I was sitting here reaming out cork rings to glue on a newly completed blank,  I was thinking that I have never seen this posted, so here goes. Go down to your local hardware store and buy a couple of rat tail files (5/16 and 3/8 diameter) when you get home hacksaw off the tail where you would put on a handle and consider these to be dedicated cork reamers. Now you can chuck them up in your cordless drill and use them to enlarge the holes in your cork.

Now here is the trick to this! You need to turn them in the opposite direction, yes counter clockwise. This keeps them from wanting to screw themselves into the cork and you get a nice finish on the holes.

I suppose everyone has been doing this for years and I will make myself out to be a numb-nuts but that has never stopped me before, and if it helps someone all the better :>)  (Joe Arguello)

    I hand file my cork with rat tail files as well.  I move the file in and out while rolling the cork back and forth on my work bench.  The trick here is switch the ends of the cork so you ream from both ends.  You need to be careful so you don't over file the very ends and end up with openings that are to large in diameter. If you over file the cork a little extra glue takes up the space and the reel seat or winding check will cover the imperfection nicely.

    I wrap the file with masking tape in the area that will be in contact with the ends/openings of the handle so I don't over file.  Occasionally pulling the file out a little more while I am filing allows me to remove just enough cork to get a nice fit while minimizing the risk of over filing.    (David Gerich)

      The nice thing about doing this in a drill is that the hole comes out just the size of the file, that is why I have different sizes, and you don't need to do anything but run the file through the cork once in and out, it's fast and it's hard to overdo it.  (Joe Arguello)

    Speaking entirely personally I do like a nice finish in the hole. So I'm gonna go out there and screw backwards from now on. If you wouldn't mind just explaining this to my wife I'd be grateful. (Robin Haywood)

    I remove the tail-stock assemble off of my lathe to make room and put the file in the chuck. I usually have to reposition it a few times to get most of the wobble out of it. When you get the wobble out of it, tighten the chuck tendon-poppin' tight. Infinite control of the speed. I run it fairly slow, it doesn't take a lot of RPMs to get it done. And yes, run it backwards. You will need to stop every couple of inches and tap or blow the cork dust out of the hole.

    It takes longer to get the file running semi-true than it does to get the cork out of the hole.  (David Atchison)


Site Design by: Talsma Web Creations

Tips Home - What's New - Tips - Articles - Tutorials - Contraptions - Contributors - Search Site - Contact Us - Taper Archives
Christmas Missives - Chat Room - Photo Galleries - Line Conversions - The Journey - Extreme Rodmaking - Rodmaker's Pictures - Donate - Store