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I've been studying the drawings and pictures of the Medved Beveler on Chris Bogart's web site. I don't quite understand how the two adjusting screws work. The longer screw is for leveling, while the shorter screw is for adjusting the depth of the cut. This doesn't make sense to me... There would seem to be only one depth where the bed would be level, at any other depth the bed would be at an angle. In thinking about this, it doesn't seem like it would make any difference if the bed is level. The router bit will always cut the strip tangential to the surface of the bed no matter what angle it is at... meaning to me that the cut will always be parallel to the surface of the bed. Is my thinking flawed or is there something I don't understand? If I am right, then it would seem that only one adjusting screw is needed? (Kyle Druey) The long screw actually raises or lowers the entire bed, which is on a pivot on the opposite side. That spring from the end of the bed to the body of the beveller pulls the bed up snug. The bed doesn't have to be level, any reasonable angle will do. The second shorter screw is just a stop, so you won't go too far as you continually raise the bed to take off more and more cane. (Bill Hoy) Does it matter what kind of router I use? Home Depot has a fixed base 1.5 HP router for $59, would this work OK? (Kyle Druey) As long as it spins and you can remove the baseplate to fit your beveller base plate, it'll work. Check for rotation of the bit before you begin setting up. Mine spins counterclockwise, so I had to set up my bed and the feeder arms opposite from what I've seen in most plans. You want the bit to rotate down into the bed, so that it pushes the work into the bed. (Bill Hoy) The short screw is nothing more then a dead stop, so all the strips will eventually end up the same size. Change the dead stop and you change the final dimension of all the strips, providing you bevel down to the dead stop. (Jim Bureau) The light bulb finally went on and now I understand that the small bolt acts as a stop to prevent further beveling, and the longer bolt is used to adjust the cutting depth. One person suggesting removing no more than 1/32" per pass through the beveler. (Kyle Druey)
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