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Rule

I'm rebuilding an earlier attempt at a Medved style beveler and wondering why you cannot mount the posts for the holddown arms in the metal backing instead of in the Plexiglas shield. Granted the tension will increase as you move the tray upwards but it shouldn't increase enough to  make that much of a difference, would it? Seems like mounting the posts for the arms into the backing would be sturdier as well as eliminate the possible cracking of the Plexi. If mounting in the plexi is a much better way, anyone have ideas on how to eliminate any cracking of the plexi holes?  (Bill Walters)

    Use hardwood or finish plywood for the tray guard and mount (bolt) the holddowns to it.  No problems so far after roughing 15 or so rods, not as fancy as the Plexi glass but it works!  (Kyle Druey)

    Use Lexan, not Plexiglas.  It costs a bit more, but machines with normal tools without cracking.  (John Sabina)

    Bummer, funny that you started this thread now Bill. I have all my parts including router sitting in my laundry room (a.k.a. woodworking - rodmaking shop) ready to assemble and to start on rod #4. Now I see that plexi won't work??? what is the problem with it? Should I run out and get something else? Where is there a source for Lexan? Same place I got the Plexi? I hope.  (Bill Bixler)

    I just completed my beveler and I mounted the hole downs on the back plate. Don't make the mistake I did and plan on pushing the bamboo into the rotating blades.  This will eat the bamboo up. Facing the beveler with the blade turning counter clockwise, you must feed from the left.  (John Cole)

      OK, John I know about the direction of feed but most people are pointing out the fact that you need to have the holddowns as close as possible to the router bit and that mounting them in the back will push the holddowns closer to and possibly into the rotating bit. Have you made an allowance for the change in the holddowns as the tray moves upward?

      Based on what everybody is saying I'm going to use a combination of metal plates and Plexi. Plexi in the center for a vacuum box  and metal plates left and right for the holddowns.  (Bill Walters)

    I think you will find that the Plexiglas will crack from the pressure of the holddowns no matter how you try to configure it (ask me how I know).  Ergo, don't use Plexi. I fashioned the plates out of apiece of scrap stainless -- it is very sturdy and fulfills the same function. You can save your Plexi for a dust hood that slips over the front of your beveler to suck out all the dust and slivers. I would think that the holddowns would not function properly if you mounted them anywhere but on the tray, unless you are only doing one size strips for one size of rod.  (Randy Zimmerman)

      If you use Lexan or polycarbonate it will not crack. this stuff is much better than Plexiglas. the first one I made I mounted the hold downs on the back plate and it was a disaster. After seeing the beveler again and mounting them on the tray it worked like a dream.  (Robert Venneri)

Rule

Well I just got my beveler done tonight and gave it a try.  No horror stories of “arrows” or flying splinters. The darn thing worked like a charm right off the bat and I produced my first 60 degree strip in a matter of a few minutes. The one thing I did find that may be of interest to anyone building a beveler is the wheel for the holddowns. I was looking for wheels in the drawer hardware, but found these great plastic wheels used for sliding doors. They have threaded centers with a nut on one side which helps with adjustments.  (John Freedy)

Rule

I noticed on the plans for the Medved beveler there are no wheels on the ends of the hold downs and I was wondering how this works out. Have any of you built yours this way and what are your thoughts.  (Dick Steinbach)

    That's how I made mine.  Seems to work ok, just a bit more pressure needed to feed the strip.  Actually, I think I need more pressure on the hold downs than I have, so maybe the wheels would be good.  (Neil Savage)

    I think Al agrees that the holddowns need more spring pressure, need to be located closer to the cutter, and need to have rollers.  If you can improvise such an arrangement, I think you’ll be very glad you did.  (Bill Harms)

      You're probably right Bill. Then again, every time I have seen Al's at work, it sure does a good job. Those things may be improvements, but not necessary.  (Rich Jezioro)

    I don't have wheels on mine.  Didn't see any in the pictures so I didn't add them.  Did notice in the pictures that the hold downs were tapered or beveled a little to fit into the 60* groove on the tray.  If you put a wheel on the hold down, keep in mind that it has to hold down to your final thickness without "bottoming out" on the sides of the groove.

    In other words the cross section to the wheel has to look like this

    Wilhelm, Tim Holddown 1

    instead of like this

    Wilhelm, Tim Holddown 2

    Make sense?  (Tim Wilhelm)

      I put flat-bottomed holes in the groove where the hold downs hit.  Used a 3/4" Forstner bit.  My hold downs are made of flat brass stock with the end bent up a bit.  (Neil Savage)

Rule

I am rebuilding the hold downs on my Medved type beveler and am having trouble finding the rollers or wheels that other makers have used on their bevelers.  I have tried Loews, Home Depot, ACE Hardware and other stores and have not found anything that would work.

Where can I purchase these rollers or wheels that can be used on the hold downs?  (Tom Peters)

    How about rollers for sliding glass doors?  (Mark Dyba)

    I bought drawer guide rollers at Lowes. They had many different styles to chose from.  (Tom Kurtis)

    I made some from 3/4" aluminum bar stock I got at the hardware store.  (Tony Spezio)

    I got my rollers in the sliding door section of the local hardware.  I mounted them on 1/16x3/4 aluminum flat stock.  (Neil Savage)

    How about roller bearings? You can get them anywhere.  (Don Schneider)

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