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While on the subject of router-based bevelers, why is it that everyone seems to build a beveller where the router is stationary and strip is fed through? It would seem like better idea to have the strip held in a form and pass a router using a straight bit over the strip to mill the side. In fact, adjustable forms could then be used to add a rough taper.  (Richard Nantel)

    There's one in Bob Milward's book, "Bamboo.  Fact, Fiction and Fly Rods"  I think the stationary router kind is probably easier to build.  I adapted one to my router table.  It attaches to the Incra fence so I have adjustment in .004" increments.  (Neil Savage)

    Al Medved made a real neat beveler that does this. The router bit passes over the strip with the strip is in the planing form.  (Tony Spezio)

    Sounds like the new JW beveller/mill. It moves down the workpiece exactly as you mention. This and the new Bellinger router beveller use the 60 degree Amana router bits. In talking to Daryll Whitehead at Bellinger, he think that the new Bellinger router mill is the real deal. It does sound pretty neat. I think it is a true one pass rougher and has tapering to  boot.  (Bob Maulucci)

      Anyone have a part number for the Amana 60° bit?  John Long was talking about it last winter, but I didn't see anything on the Amana web site that looked like what he was talking about.  (Neil Savage)

        I used to have a set of those, and I gave them to Per Brandin.  The collet is the weak point.  Every Router Collet I have ever encountered would allow excessive runout after a bit of use.

        The Amana Cutters were called Chamfer Cutters -- they were designed to be used to chamfer the top and bottom edge of a counter top or table top at once, thus they were designed to be split apart by as much as two inches, as I recall.  The mandrel they come with includes a lot of spacers and is too long for our use -- too much weight far away from the collet.  I recommend ordering a shorter mandrel at the same time as ordering the cutters.  The cutters may be flipped to cut quad strips or hex strips.  Three wing, carbide with flat tips -- not pointy.  I recommend using a rheostat or whatever to lower the RPMs on your router too, but then I really recommend not using these cutters.  They are practically shaper cutters and why use a router when a shaper is the better tool for the job.  Get a one inch shaft and solid cutters.

        THE AMANA PART NUMBER IS 49730.  IT IS CALLED A VARIABLE DOUBLE CHAMFER ASSEMBLY.

        Been there, done that, gave it away and moved forward.  (Chris Lucker)

          I agree with Chris Lucker on this point.

          You will find that the Amana bits are apt to not be square and that when these are put together then you often times will not get a true 60 or a true 45.  TRUST ME, I know this from experience.  That is why I had custom 61.5 degree cutters made.  (Joe Byrd)

          I've been using one for quite awhile, I don't know if it's a true 60, never checked it, but, for all practical purposes, it's close enough to get the cane into a form, and make life easy. Sharpens well too!  (Jerry Andrews)

    Cecil Pierce used a router tilted at 30 degrees to rough strips in two passes -- sort of like a Powell saw.  Then he put the strips in planing forms and used a router to make final tapers -- I would guess that he tapered one side only, as with a Powell saw, but it doesn't really matter.  Despite the fact that he was a master plane maker, Cecil could not hand plane his cane/graphite/cane sandwiches, so he had to use a router.  Obviously, Cecil Pierce did not always make rods this way, but in his mid-80s brochure the pictures show the process I just described.  (Chris Lucker)

    Running strips through a roughing beveler is quick and easy. As for running a router over planing

    forms I do that know but I run the router over the form vertically and cut it like an end mill. I can take the strip to finish size but I like to do that with a plane and scraper. Some people may be nervous to run a router over their planing forms so I suggest they make a set of wood forms and then finish them on their metal forms with a plane.

    Usually using the above method I can finish a strip with 3 passes on each side after roughing and remove the last .005 with the plane or scraper.  (Adam Vigil)

      This is similar to something I've tried which provided OK, but not great, results. The challenge is  pressing the strip down into the forms.  With a hand plane, this is done automatically. With a router, it seems to be more of a challenge.  (Richard Nantel)

        Problem solved. My router is mounted vertically on a 3/4" board. A channel is cut so the cane has clearance to pass under the cutting head. In this channel I have mounted feeler gauges that are bent into a position such that they provide a downward pressure on the strip before and after the cutting head. This pushes down on the cane exactly as a plane would and insures the cane is well seated into the form as the cutting head passes over. I also have it set up to work with a vacuum so there is no bamboo shavings left on the forms.  (Adam Vigil)

Rule

I recently acquired a DC gear motor that I am going to use in a Dickerson style beveler I am beginning to put together.  The input to this motor is 12V.  Does anyone have a good source for a controller that has 120v input and 12V output to the gear motor?  I have an old controller from a model railroad set but the output is 18V which is too strong.  (Scott Bahn)

    I have the same set up for my dipping tube: - I purchased an "HO" model train controller for 40 bucks or so online; it's reversible and has a variable speed control for both ways. Out put is 12V at MAX -

    Model: Railpower 1370;
    Manufacturer: MRC
    I found the lowest price on Amazon for $28.00  (Jimmy Chang)

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