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Anyone have any ideas about how one can make a Dickerson/Bellinger tapering beveler work as a roughing beveler as well? I think Russ at Golden Witch mentioned something about that in one of his past catalogs somewhere. I just wondered if the idea ever took form. Any ideas etc?  (Randall Gregory)

    I made a mill on the Dickerson principles and use it for roughing as well as for tapering.  All I do is put in another anvil which has no taper on it and lower the bed so it takes off only enough to triangulate the cane.

    Dickerson had a special insert he used to rough, but I do  not find it necessary to use one.  All that is required is another lead in hold down  roller which will take square cane instead of triangulated stuff.  (Ed Hartzell)

Rule

Making tapering boards for bevelers.

Cut two boards of equal length, they should be the length of your section, plus four inches on each end.

Height is 1 1/2 inches, and the thickness has to match the slot in your beveler bed. For the Bellinger it is .480.

If the jig board is too thick, plane it down by hand or in a joiner.

Place the boards together on the workbench and hold them together at their base with a strap hinge. This is just a rectangular piece of sheet metal with four holes for screws that go into the base of the boards.

Figure out what taper you want. You can think of this as a "rise over run" problem, or think of it as "if my taper slopes 5 thousandths of an inch per inch, and my section is 45 inches long, then I need a taper of .225 over the length of the section".

Push the non-hinged end apart, and close it on a drill bit or a piece of metal that is the correct diameter (.225). you can insert additional drill bits of the correct taper (at that point) down the gap to be sure there is no bowing or inaccuracy.

Hold the taper by nailing the two boards together with four or five wooden shims and brads. Remove bits.

Run the thing through your table saw. Set the rip fence so the blade takes off just a hair going in and about .225 coming out. mark the high and low ends, the low end goes into the beveler first. Draw big arrows to indicate feed direction. It doesn't matter how much you take off because it’s the taper that matters, and not the jig dimensions. Just take off enough to get clean cut on the initial edge.

Run the new jig through the beveler. Start low, and raise it slowly so excess wood is removed. Tack a strip to the jig, and feed it through. Again, start low and raise it slowly until you get the taper you want given your strip thickness. Record your strip thickness and height above bed right on the jig for future reference. From that point on, all you have to do is raise it to the correct height and bevel away. I use 1/4 inch roughed strips exclusively so all I have to is raise the bed to the correct height.

It takes longer to write about it than it does to do it. If you have trouble visualizing it, Take a look at any web site showing a tapering jig for a table saw and you will see how to do it instantly.  (Jeff Schaeffer)

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