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Can anyone tell me the approximate weight in grams of Rush River Rods 13/64 ferrule. Feedback appreciated.  (Wayne Kifer)

    Just  went  out  to  the  shop  and measured three sets. Female 4.1 grams. Male 2.2 grams.  (Mark Heskett)

      I've wondered how much a bamboo ferrule weights. I've weighted pieces before, like the sleeve of the female, with silk, .2g  This is a sacrificial 7'6" 5 wt. tip over butt.

      I treat the taper (stress) as a one piece.

      Male  1.6g

      female 2.6g

      This is a 13/64 equivalent.  3" of in length, even  included the taper, to and from, the final dimensions.  And the female was wrapped in silk with one layer of thinned Flex-Cote-lite

      same weight ( well, the next 3" of the same rod) of taper  4.2 g

      Male section 2.6g

      Female section 1.6g   (Jerry Foster)

    I know that truncated ferrules are shorter than normal ones, end therefore lighter. I have the dimensions for normal super Z ferrules. I want to use truncated ferrules for a four piece rod, but I have no specifications for them. Can anybody give me specifications for truncated ferrules? Maybe I have to deduct a percentage from normal super Z ferrules? I want the dimensions for #9,11,13,15 17 and #19 ferrules.   (Geert Poorteman)

      Here's the original patent application for the super Z.

      I don't know if this is for standard or truncated (I'm at work and can't check my notes at home to tell which it is).

      Also, the following discussion might help

      "For a Super Z design is male slide = 3.8 * bamboo diameter.  So for a 14/64 the male slide would be .832" long, add to it a minimum of 1/4" for serrations and wrap that would be 1.1" (mine is 1.25")  for the male.  The female slide length is usually 4* bamboo diameter to accommodate the male slide and a small air space.  The bamboo side I usually keep it the same.

      So for that same ferrule the female would be .875" +.875" + .03" (separator) = 1.78".

      So with that basic rule (3.8 * D), all other dimensions kinda fall into line.  If I was to make a truncated, I would use something like 3 instead of 3.8. That said, I would not do this.  1 3/4" is not very big for 14 ferrule and when together its about 2.25".  I'm pretty sure  REC's is longer if I remember right. Never seen CSE or Bellinger's so I can not comment.

      So to answer your question, the business end is what gets shorter, because you'll still need about a 1/4" for serrations and wraps, so the only place to shorten the male would be the slide.  So then the female slide could get shorter, so while you're at it shorten the bamboo side. What to low limit is, I don't know."  (Chris Obuchowski)

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Regarding ferrules:  It is not just the bending or not bending of the metal ferrules. The stiffness of the rod as you move along the rod from butt to tip depends on the Modulus of Elasticity (E) times the Area Moment of Inertia (I) (I know big technical words) - that is - EI. Given that E is relatively constant we hope given it is bamboo, the  I  parameter changes as a function of the local dimension of the bamboo and  through the geometry of the ferrule. So there is an influence of the ferrule in the behavior of the rod at the ferrule joint. I have done research in "plastic rods" that show a significant difference in the Moment of Inertia through the ferrule joints that are  "tip over butt"  (Orvis type) and the " spigot " ferrule design (Winston type). I have not done anything with the ferrules for bamboo rods. Hope this helps a little and is not too confusing.  (Frank Paul)

    What were your findings on the, hold your breath, - 'pl@#$tic' - ferrules?  (Stephen Dugmore)

      I need to make sure that folks realized that as one goes along a rod with a ferrule (plastic or metal) there is both a change in material (metal or plastic) with different MOE than the rod would have. Additionally the ferrule design has a changing Area Moment of Inertia  I  for both rod types. What we found out for the plastic rod was that the "tip over butt" ferrule design has a larger variation in the  EI  along the ferrule length than does the " spigot " design. It was our conclusion that it was more important to minimize any variation of the rod stiffness through the ferrule length - that is the  EI  product - while going from one section of the rod to the next to provide smoother rod deflection under load. Thus, many quality rod companies use the spigot ferrule rather than the tip over butt. I suspect, but do not know, that is probably why some bamboo rods were designed with step down ferrules rather than the uniform ferrule design. Probably someone with more knowledge of the historic design of bamboo rods and their ferrules could answer that question.  (Frank Paul)

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Well, I am going to jump in with both feet.  I am ordering my metal lathe this week.  My intent is to start making my own nickel silver ferrules, seat hardware, winding checks, blah, blah, blah.  Rather than reinvent the wheel and measure all the ferrule sizes I might need, I thought I would see if any of you have the specifications.  If not, I will measure each ferrule.  No big deal, but I am getting rather lazy in my old age.

Also I wouldn't mind a list of reamers that are common to ferrule making.  Boy, do I sound like a mooch!!!

Going to be a huge learning curve, but I am looking forward to it.  (Pete Emmel)

    If I remember correctly, the specifics of Super Z style ferrules are on Chris Bogart's web site.  Specifics of stepped ferrules are (I think) on David Bolin's site.  Todd may well have both on the Tips page.

    Have fun!! (Harry Boyd)

    Maybe this will help. (Joe Arguello)

      Whoa, thanks a lot Joe.  That is even more than I expected.  Now I just have to tool up and get good.  Hope you folks are ready for a ton of machining questions.  I know the basics, but that is about it.  Probably know enough to get myself a Nunley award.  (Pete Emmel)

    Louis is right on. Using the instructions and the spreadsheet on Tom's site I got the tools I needed and made my first set of ferrules this last weekend. I have zero shop experience. Take your time and be safe.  The only tricky part was slitting the serrations. I think I have that worked out now.

    Good luck!  (Pete Bates)

    Hard to compete with what Louis just sent you, but this is a link to Bogart's information.  (Tim Wilhelm)

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