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I have a 7 foot 2 piece rod that I was casting in my backyard today.  This was only the second time I've had it out of the tube but today was the first time I really put a good strong bend in it.   I noticed I have a hairline crack at the end of the female ferrule serration.  I tried pulling on it, then  continued casting a while longer but it does not appear loose to me.  So the question is, if so, does that mean its pinning time?  I have never done that.  (Richard Teeter)

    This is a normal condition, caused by the different flex of the bamboo and the metal ferrule. I haven't found a way to prevent it. Usually it's just cosmetic unless the crack breaks a thread and the wrap starts to unravel. I usually end the ferrule wrap at the very end of the tabs and start a new wrap packed right up against it. That way, if it cracks through the finish, it won't break a thread.  (Steve Weiss)

      I have found that by filing the ferrule tabs to the blank so that there is no step whatsoever you can help the situation 90 percent.  (Marty DeSapio)

        Are you saying that the fracture does not occur?  Or just much less noticeable?

        I have been able to make them tiny doing what you say, but they still are there.  Maybe I'm too chicken to take the tabs down to foil thickness.  (Jerry Madigan)

          A little bit of both. For the most part they do not occur and the ones that do you have to look extremely close to notice it. I think it has more to do with getting the step out of the transition from wood to metal than anything else. I think during flexing the thread falls off the curb if there is the slightest step in the transition.  (Marty DeSapio)

      I have heard but not completely tested it yet that by sanding the ferrule tabs real thin and/or double wrapping them this can be prevented from happening. On my current two rods I have crowned the tabs and sanded them so they get gradually thinner at the tips.  Only time will tell whether or not it works.  (Larry Puckett)

    I've had a couple of rods that I fished thru the past summer that I used Accraglas epoxy on the ferrules. Tapered the tabs thin, and hand cleaned off excess glue as not to induce any heat, and both have not shown stress cracks in the varnish.

    May be just lucky too.... (Chad Wigham)


The following responses were posted in response to a question about underdressed ferrules and the fact that the ferrules show through the wraps:

You might try some larger thread, like Gudebrod A or OO.  Start the wrap on the bamboo rather than the metal, and wrap up.  Keep things packed tightly.  Go slow, and work your way up the ferrule tabs.  Though it may take you 4-5 tries, I bet you can wrap it where the tabs don't show.  (Harry Boyd)

You might try a narrow piece of transparent tape of the kind used to repair tears in books.  Wrap  around the joint between the cane and the ferrule serrations, covering both and then wrap the thread over it.  Works for me.  (Ed Hartzell)

Try epoxy, it will work nicely to fill the gap. get a thin type. the rod wrapping type works. the 5 minute stuff does not, too thick.  I learned this one by reading the Bob Milward book.  (Bob Maulucci)

Just remove the ferrule wrap and using a jewelers file (or small file) taper the ends of the serrations down to the cane.  (Marty DeSapio)

You should be able to file the serrations while the ferrule is on the rod. I wrap one layer of masking tape around the bamboo where it meets the ferrule to protect the bamboo, then smoothly and carefully file away with a small file.

If you don't want to file at this point, then another option besides the ones already mentioned is to do a 5 turn wrap up against the ferrule tabs and tie it off, then use this wrap as a ramp for your next wrap which begins just before this wrap, goes up over it, and onto the ferrule.  You can either seal it with something, let it dry, then wrap over it, or wrap over unfinished being careful to turn your wraps close together.

I've worked on some Hardy fly rods and Heddon baitcasting rods that had the ramp wrap, as well as some that were double wrapped at the ferrule.  (Chris McDowell)

I did something similar on my first rod.  I didn't get the ferrule serrations on the tips as thin as they should be. At that point I was too paranoid to file with the things glued to the blank, so I started the thread at the ferrule, wrapped 1 quarter inch toward the tip, then changed directions and wrapped up onto the ferrule shoulder (i.e. one wrap on the ferrule, and two wraps on the blank). turned out great. (Chad Boyd)

I have found that when working with 2 part epoxies for making transitions for serration to blank it goes much easier if I use putty like epoxy. It allows me time to smooth using denatured alcohol. Once done allow to dry a couple of days, because of the color of the epoxy the color shift is not noticeable. Make sure you use glove to do this. (Tim Doughty)


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