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Has anyone else had their reel seats split lengthwise along the mortise after a couple of years?  One of mine did and another rod maker at SRG had one of his split as well.  Both were hairline cracks along the grain.  Mine was snakewood and his was rosewood.  Snakewood is very dense and hard.  Rosewood is moderately hard.  I know all woods expand and contract with humidity.  My wood was from Rockler and was well aged.  I used 30 minute Epoxy and finished with Varmor.

Am I fitting these too tight?   Should I  be using a more flexible glue?  Tips, suggestions?  (Ralph Tuttle)

    I've not had that problem but I think that perhaps your fitting the reel seat to tightly to the rod. Next time try a little looser fit and fasten with an expanding glue such as Gorilla glue.

    Another thought; I've split a few handles while drilling them. You may be getting hair line splits when you drill the center hole.  (Mark Dyba)


I just started making reel seats and I wondered if there was a standard foot manufactures use. If so, what us it?  (Jim Lowe)

    Jim, here you go.  (Christian Meinke)

    There is an AFTMA standard for modern reels but the old timers are all over the place.  Those JW Young post war reels had especially cumbersome feet BTW.  (Larry Swearingen)

      The Young doesn't fit my latest rod but the seat on that rod was made for a Martin Classic. I don't worry about it much for myself but as I give rods away with my seats on them I want to make sure the reel seats fit OK.  (Jim Lowe)


OK, so I’ve dog eared my copy of Split and Glued and now I have decided that I absolutely need a reel seat with a bank spike in it.

I believe it will make me the coolest kid at the pond.

Anyone on the list know were I could find one of these without killing an old rod?  (Jon Babulic)

    Last time I saw one was on the REC web site.  (Hal Manas)

    I can't remember where I first heard of a bank spike in connection with fly rods. I searched high and low for information on them. I did find a reel seat with a removable bank spike, but wouldn't ya know I can't find it again. I just spent a half hour on Google looking for info, but can't find a thing.

    I think you'd be better off getting a salmon rod reel seat setup that is threaded for a removable fighting but, and make your own bank spike. Not many North American fly fishermen would even know what a bank spike is.

    Possibly a maker in the U.K. can help?  (Chuck Pickering)

      You may have heard about Vince Marinaro incorporating them into his rods. Bill Harms' new book may shed light on this. Marinaro is the only American maker that I know of that did this. And supposedly a sumac reel seat.  (Jeff Schaeffer)

    Hardy used to make these, but no longer. A few years back, I had some sets made up by David LeClair. These work very well, but I no longer have any left. David is an excellent machinist and rodmaker, but because we worked out the design through email conversations, I have no record of the particular specs. You might want to contact him to see if he can help you out.  (Bill Harms)


I wondered if anyone could advise as to soldering brass or Duronze?  Was thinking of soldering butt caps.  Is there any way to color the solder?  (Dave Kemp)

    I don't know about coloring the solder but I had some Duronze cap and ring sets made for me out of solid bar stock. Worked fine and looked great. Same with the duronze ferrules, made out of bar stock. Eliminates all need for soldering.  (Will Price)

    I've never used it but there is different color solder available. Check this out.

    Don't know how or if it is compatible with Duronze.  (Don Schneider)

    You can solder brass no problem, but Duronze will not solder(alloy C64200 anyway). You may be able to braze it, but it's only rated as "fair" for that. You would be better off machining it from bar stock.

    To solder the brass, just make sure it's really clean and only have flux where you want the solder. It isn't really any different than soldering nickel silver.

    As to coloring solder, brass black will darken it somewhat but it will still be a noticeably different color than the brass itself.  (Jason Klett)


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